California Apparel News

Swim makers take a fresh look at the missy market

The recent emphasis on new junior and contemporary swim brands such as Rampage, Bebe and Lucky has overshadowed a key segment of the swimwear business—missy.

The segment is garnering new attention as Southern California swim makers broaden their missy collections by updating some of the more classic looks and adding more construction for a better fit to modern designs at affordable prices.

In some cases, missy is getting a youthful makeover. Many industry sources say missy is broadening its appeal—from the young teen making the transition into a womanly fit to the more seasoned senior with a strong sense of style—with prints and solids in an array of modern, and sometimes edgy, styles.

Today’s missy customer has a more youthful attitude about her swimwear, say industry sources.

“We’re not designing our product with a younger customer in mind, we’re designing to reflect the lifestyle of our customer,” explained John Wickham, president of Carson, Calif.-based Beach Patrol.

For many swim companies, the Cruise season—which runs from October to December—is typically a strong market for missy swimwear. But more important, the season serves as an indicator of which styles will do well for Spring and Summer.

Some missy swim makers say they plan to go light on their inventories for the Cruise season and then increase their production by early Spring.

Not all department stores are planning to carry missy collections during Cruise season, so a lot of missy swim makers are adding specialty store accounts to their business, said Brian Murphy, marketing director at Jantzen, which produces swimwear for Nike and Tommy Hilfiger.

Veteran missy swim makers, including Catalina, Jantzen, Cole of California, Rose Marie Reid and Maxine of Hollywood, continue to build their niche in swim markets after being in the swim for more than 50 years. They say construction is key to their missy business.

For many longtime swim makers, consistency in style and quality has kept numbers on track during economically troubled times.

Kenneth Nim, executive vice president of sales for Maxine of Hollywood, which is produced under Maxine Swim Group with Rose Marie Reid and Liz Claiborne Collection, said, “There are only two things that slow us down: weather and the economy. The more difficult the economy becomes, the more traditional people’s lifestyles become and they look for simplicity. That’s not to say that the customer that comes back year after year is not looking for newness in prints and color and coverage and support.”

For a time, Rose Marie Reid was not being marketed or sold in the U.S., but that changed when Maxine Swim Group acquired the label shortly after Sirena Apparel Group emerged from bankruptcy.

For 2003, the company is counting on a 40 percent increase in sales for its missy collections.

Reproducing some of those old styles (such as halter tops in one and two pieces and skirted bottoms) triggered a whole new generation of customers who were looking for retro styles.

Swimwear makers call it a revival of sorts.

“I always say it is a classic trend. You see it in today’s lifestyle—from clothing to furniture,” said Nim.

Murphy echoed this sentiment. “In today’s fastchanging world we find ourselves drawn toward the romance of the past. And when we as marketers present what’s old in a new way we capture the imagination of our consumer,” he said.

Authentic Fitness’ Catalina Collection, which was founded in 1912, strives to reflect the latest trends in women’s swimwear without losing sight of its customers’ needs, said Linda Minjares, vice president, mass market/private label.

For Spring 2003, the collection is comprised of two categories: tanks and skirts and separates made with Lycra tricot rib.

A lingerie maillot, over-the-shoulder tank and tie skirt are just a few key styles in the collection, which retails only at Wal-Mart stores.

Transitioning Juniors Into Missy

One company making inroads for missy is Carson, Calif.-based Beach Patrol, which produces three missy collections: Baja Blue, JAG and Swim Systems.

Baja Blue is the company’s better missy collection, which is made for women between the ages of 30 and 54, while JAG is a more active collection that combines sporty styles, such as racer back tops, with a bright color palette for women of the same age group. Swim Systems is a separates line that leans more toward contemporary style but has coverage and lift features, including removable pads, underwire and tummy control.

Each collection has around six groups that use combinations of Meryl, Lycra, Tactel, spandex and nylon blends. Wholesale price points range from $19 to $41.

Designer Sally Locko, who creates the Sessa line for Los Angeles-based Apparel Ventures, is hoping to draw in customers who are transitioning from juniors to missy. The better missy collection, which was formed in the early ’90s, is geared toward women in their early 20s to mid-40s.

Locko said the company has doubled its business since 1999 and is aiming to reach $15 million by the end of 2003.

“The missy customer is getting younger, her point of view is younger and in most cases she may be more fit than ever,” the designer noted.

For her collection, Locko combines style with fit features. The collection is influenced by prints and textures that are trendy in fashion and put in a well-fitted, classically cut suit, she said.

“Several years ago we didn’t offer the missy customer what we’re offering her now,” explained Locko. “That missy customer is now being offered a variety of suits that are still going to do [allow the customer to do] the things they do, but they’re going to look more youthful doing it. We’re giving the missy customer all of those same beautiful suits but with the fit and construction which is more appropriate to her body type.”

Los Angeles-based Malibu Dream Girl designed a collection that offers a transition between junior and missy styles with Liquid Blue, a missy collection that takes its cue from sportswear. Beaded rings, foil dusting, skin prints, multi-colored stripes, braided belts and embroidery are featured in the collection, which also features a halter top and boy-short silhouette.

Marketing Missy

Not surprisingly, now that missy is reflecting a younger attitude in its swimwear, several manufacturers are stepping up to the challenge.

“It was a difficult category to sell last year, but I think swim makers are looking at it a little bit more closely this season and trying to find ways to update it and bring back the missy customer,” said Beach Patrol’s Wickham.

With a handful of new styles recently added to its missy category, Beach Patrol is expecting a 15 percent sales increase for 2003, said Gail Rhodes, senior vice president of sales.

In order to sell the suit, it has to be priced right and the presentation has to be there, explained Rhodes. “Retailers tell us there is more activity with newness and a bigger selection,” she said.

Buyer Connie Ward of Younkers, a division of Saks Inc. that operates 50 stores in the Midwest, agreed.

Ward said her store has increased its visual presentation of missy swimwear by highlighting newer styles on the floor.

The store also maintains solid business with lines it can value-price year-round, said Ward. “Maxine of Hollywood, for example, produces a standard suit that our store value-priced at $49.98, and customers love it,” she noted.

Many of the newer missy swim makers are taking their cue from the traditional swim lines and adding more silhouettes and construction features, such as tummy and hip control features with Lycra/spandex fabrications, as well as removable pads and underwire.

Trendwise, several industry sources predict tankinis in skirted bottoms or shorts with a blouson or high-neck top will be top sellers, while others say separates will make up a large portion of their businesses. Hipster and halter styles with feminine details, including embroidery and ruffles, are expected to make a splash at retail.

These days, missy prints offer modern variations—from pastel-colored retro prints to floral and tropical prints. Batiks, ombres, border prints and ethnic borders with matching cover-ups are just a few looks buyers will notice for the Cruise season.

Another category some missy swim makers are talking about is a non-print tiedye fabrication that lends a more contemporary feel to the swimwear.

Several converters and fabric makers in Southern California, including Long Beach-based Texollini and H. Greenblatt and AGX, both in Los Angeles, are helping to redefine missy swimwear with highperformance fabrics and innovative prints.

Chlorine-resistant fabrics can cost anywhere from $7 per yard to $18 per yard, according to Bonnie Lee, head of styling at AGX, a custom fabric converter in downtown Los Angeles.

Keeping Up With Demand

Because missy swimwear is a yearround business there is little time to rest, said Lee, whose bicoastal company counts Southern California swim makers including Apparel Ventures, Catalina, Jantzen, Beach Patrol and Raisins as clients.

However, last year was a bit slow, Lee added.

“Our business was affected a little bit by scalebacks, but we still did okay. This year, our orders are considerably higher than last year because manufacturers are selling,” she said.

For many missy swim makers, making sure there is an adequate supply of fabric is a priority. Last Spring, several swimwear makers that import their fabric were left out in the cold when the swim business rebounded at retail.

Tustin, Calif.-based Raj Manufacturing, which designs and produces three missy collections—Athena Collection and Athena Size Disguise, both sold as sets, and Athena Pick Your Fit, a separates collection—buys its fabric supply both domestically and overseas. The company produces all of its swimwear in-house and has a quick turnover rate.

Raj said it plans to see a 33 percent sales increase for its missy collections.

“Our biggest challenge in missy swimwear is to find a way to bring excitement and uniqueness back to the customer,” said Alex Bhathal, executive vice president of planning. “We may not invent a winner with every new style, but we would rather try that route than find ourselves in a price war for commodity goods.”

The company’s newest collection, Athena Size Disguise, has had a great response from buyers, said Bhathal. The company has responded by adding two additional groups to the collection with delivery dates set for 1/31.