Apparel Firms See More Choices in PDM Market
After a period of skepticism and some bad experiences along the way, the apparel industry appears to be warming up to PDM (product data management) technology. PDM is the software that manages the specs, revisions and data associated with the pre-production processes. It has evolved to become a collaboration tool and—more important— a time saver for apparel companies and retailers looking to speed up production.
These changes have more players entering the PDM arena, which typically has been small compared with software fronts such as ERP (enterprise resource planning). In just the past few months, Los Angeles–based Tukatech Inc. aligned with PDM specialist Justwin Technologies to provide PDM and collaborative commerce solutions to its customers. David Dea, formerly of WinFashion in Los Angeles, launched PDMsoft, a Santa Monica, Calif.–based PDM firm. And New Generation Computing of Miami Lakes, Fla., is also developing a PDM package, said President Alan Brooks.
“It’s really taken a jump over the past couple of years,” said Dea.
The main reason? Pressure. Namely, the pressure placed on manufacturers and retailers to turn goods out quickly in a global marketplace constantly demanding freshness.
“The apparel seasons are changing,” said Marshal Gordon, an apparel- and footwear-industry specialist with Newtown, Pa.–based SAP America, Inc., which markets PLM (product lifecycle management) applications “You’re seeing companies bring in six or eight seasons a year. In cases like [Spanish retailer] Zara, it’s 20 to 30.”
But, Gordon added, unless companies have the technology in place to accommodate new merchandise, planning more seasons is a moot point.
Yet, PDM technology has also advanced to become more attractive to apparel companies. It is no longer just an application based on spec sheets—PDM programs now incorporate graphics and, in some cases, 3D technology.
“It’s not just about PDM anymore,” said Rupi Arora, chief operating officer for Tukatech/Justwin. “We call it CPC [collaborative product commerce]. It’s like everyone is on the same team even though your contractors are in Mexico, China or wherever.”
Justwin’s system is activated by “triggers” that keep everyone on the same page. If a patternmaker sends a pattern to a contractor for costing, the system notes who completes the pattern, generates a message indicating which contractor to use and makes sure the next task is done by deadline.
Automation is becoming a necessity as more apparel companies use offshore sources and the pre-production process becomes more complicated. Many apparel businesses will adopt one style out of 20 prototypes. Those adopted styles typically can have 50 revisions attached to them before they are sent into final production.
Dea said when he visits production houses and asks for spec sheets, he often has to wait up to 10 minutes for someone to find them.
“There are so many variables,” he said. “What fabric was used? Who did the second fitting?”
San Francisco firm Shane-Hunter uses PDM to manage the scads of sketches it does during pre-production for its juniors line Aqua Blues. The company uses Freeborders’ FB iPDM product.
“We are delivering literally hundreds of junior styles each month to our top retail customers hellip; and [PDM] helps us easily create and manage our product sketches and data and enables us to grow our business with our targeted customers, maximizing our expertise in identifying trends, design and fabrics,” said Shane-Hunter President Wayne Malen.
Retailers are also buying into PDM as they become increasingly involved in direct importing and production. Dea of PDMsoft is negotiating with Los Angeles–based Forever 21. And Minneapolisbased Christopher & Banks is using PDM to standardize product- development processes across its divisions. As a result, the company is significantly reducing vendor communication time while increasing accuracy, said Betsy Henderson, head of technical design at C. J. Banks, a division of Christopher & Banks.
Arora of Tukatech said the potential for PDM and CPC solutions is unbounded. In some case studies from automaker Ford, efficiencies have improved by more than 20 percent, he said.
It will take the apparel industry some time to reach that level, but the industry has made some significant advances in recent months, according to technology executives.
