California Apparel News

Premiegrave;re Vision concluded its Feb. 11–15 run at Parc d’Expositions in Paris with encouraging results as 31,397 visitors attended the fair.

Attendance was, however, slightly down from last year’s count of 32,634. Buyers from the North American market numbered 1,379, which was also slightly down from the 1,575 that turned out last year. Still, representatives from St. John Knits, Louis Raphael, D.S.P.T. International, Perry Ellis and Ellen Tracy were present at the show.

Premiegrave;re Vision was just one of the shows taking place at Parc d’Expositions under the umbrella title Paris Pole Mode. Complementary shows Fil Event, Indigo and Mod’Amont also covered the latest in yarns, surface designs and trimmings for the fashion industry.

Fresh, pure cotton and synthetic blends in structured weaves and piqueacute;s, as well as limp linens and cottons with “poorly ironed” and refined crinkle effects dominated the Spring/Summer 2004 season at the show. Silks and knits were fluid and sensual. Chiffons, gauzes and ethereal laces offered transparent looks. Vegetal fibers were mixed with highly drawn weaves, and voluminous crepons and seersuckers were pressed and flattened. Artisan looks got a tech update that combined handmade spirit with a touch of matte metallic.

Color-wise, pulsating reds worked alongside natural shades. Blues and grays were cool and watery. Shades of fresh fruit played with dynamic contrasts, and bright, intense shades were baked, cracked and aged.

Finishing school

Textile mills’ finishing techniques added texture and altered patterns.

bull; Libeco-Lagae’s linen with stainless-steel blend resulted in a soft, iridescent, crushed effect with luster and drape. Polyurethane coated 100-percent linen to create water-repellent outerwear with a soft, non-plastic hand. The ammonia-based “Carefreez” finish rendered linen crease-resistant after machine-washing and tumble-drying.

bull; Oxford cloth, end-and-ends, chambrays and classic woolen patterns influenced linens, and additional washings and color applications revealed structures. Resin treatments on linen, viscose-linen and cotton in fresh but dusty colors from Pratesi offered a vintage aspect, while waxed treatments lent a papery handle.

bull; Linea Esse’s acid treatments on printed base cloths conveyed a bleached-out effect.

bull; Water finishing from Sincronia gave cotton knits a dry, natural touch.

bull; A milk protein-based blend of promix, cotton, polyamide and elastan resulted in brilliant fabrics from Inner by Jackytex.

Global influence

Designers found global inspiration in ethnic fabric styles originating from Africa and the Far East.

bull; The Mantero collection included refined camouflage florals and jungle patterns, Japanese and Chinese motifs, black-and-white geometrics, giant polka dots in extravagant multicolors, chevrons, circles and paisleys. Mantero also featured two-tone flat flowers printed on seersucker, dotted Swiss, silk cotton and silk/linen alternative base fabrics.

bull; Tissage du Causse showcased African-inspired prints and tie-dyed linens, as well as lightweight voiles with blistered effects.

bull; Sand, olive green, deep ochre, reddish brown, indigo, hot orange, red and fuchsia colored Crespi’s hemp fabrics, which the company offered pure or blended with linen and cotton. Oversized border patterns and ethnic embroidery effects turned up in Awaji-inspired, yarn-dyed Jacquards.

bull; CTL Nathan combined different fibers and weaving and printing techniques to create modern looks. Indonesian motifs influenced romantic themes in pastel tones. Delicately tossed pink flowers overprinted contrasting opaque and transparent stripes. Jacquards in deep, dark browns offset by pinks were dyed, washed out and printed with Oriental designs.

Super naturals

Natural fibers were blended with silk for luxe looks or offered as ecologically friendly fabric alternatives.

bull; Malhia’s bamboo fabrics were ecological, antibacterial, comfortable, wrinkle-resistant, strong and reasonably priced.

bull; Europeenne de Tissage combined hemp with silk to create opaque and transparent stripes.

Unexpected combinations

Some mills used unexpected fabric combinations or added embellishments to create new looks.

bull; Wool producer Lessona gave light, dense fabrics three-dimensional effects by using shiny, twisted yarns. New finishings included silicone treatments for water-resistance.

bull; Robert Noble introduced a two-colored, yarn-dyed silk/linen intimate blend for iridescent effects. Silk/linen twisted into textured weaves and summer tweeds, and wool/cotton had a piqueacute;d look. The company also laced multi-yarn stripes with Lurex.

bull; Pontelambro over-dyed yarn in rustic colors to create a “slightly used” effect.

bull; Shirting specialist Taiana Virgilio displayed special constructions, including fil coupe and overprinted multicolors on shaded and marbled effects. The company also proposed stitchings, embroideries and braiding on striped, wavy and seersucker effects.

bull; Strella decorated denim with lace patches displaying hand-painted rosebuds.

bull; Crocheted cotton lace and fishnet tulle, geometric and plaid patterns, and laces re-embroidered with raffia and pearls were on view at Sophie Hallette.

bull; Rich, lavish florals and embroidered metallic laces with an antique feel were available at Solstiss. The company also showed a modern twist with “Summer Fur,” a lace appliqueacute;d with frayed, tie-dyed chiffon and lace strips and embellished with large leather pailletes.

bull; Jakob Schlaepfer developed unusual paper yarn laces and printed ink-jet patterns on chiffon and sequin base fabrics in strong, shocking colors.

bull; Combinations of several simple processes resulted in elaborate fabrics at Gamma Seta. Partially burnt-out fabrics were printed on both sides to create iridescent effects. For the haute couture range, Gamma Seta printed silk on one side, burnt-out the other, hand-painted the fabric and then dusted it with powder from crushed diamonds.

bull; Europeenne de Tissage crushed and embossed polyester fabrics with floral motifs.

bull; Mantero’s exquisite taffetas in light colors and organza with paper finish and tiny, soft romantic flowers had a crunchy hand.

Premiegrave;re Vision will hold its Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 show in September at Parc d’Expositions.