Contemporary Classics From San Francisco

San Francisco–based designer Jan Warnock used hand-tailoring techniques and European fabrics—such as Scottish tweed, cashmere blends, alpaca, French lace, leather trim and fine Italian wools—to create a refined, delicate sportswear collection that blends classic and contemporary styles.

The designer studied fashion design at Otis College of Art and Design in Los Angeles before moving to the Bay Area and starting her own apparel business under the Jan Warnock label earlier this year.

A layered wool, mohair and cashmere skirt in orange, brown and ivory; a midnight-black blouson jacket; and a bias-cut skirt were inspired by French designers Madeleine Vionnet, Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, Warnock said. The thirty-something designer pays close attention to the smallest details, such as imported horn buttons and silver buckles. Some of her coats even have a secret inside pocket for lipstick. She uses leather and suede embellishments to give the line an edgy feel.

Warnock also looks to her family history for inspiration. A dress her grandmother wore in a 1930s photo was the inspiration behind a black polyester dress with smocking, pin tucks, pleats and a slip. When she sat down to design it, she decided to add modern elements to the original design; she dropped the waistline and tempered the A-line flare by using less fabric in the skirt.

The 17-piece collection wholesales from $100 for a cut wool shell with leather trim to $425 for a fitted lace coat.

Warnock acquired most of the collection’s fabrications—including Solstiss lace from France—last year at Paris-based Premiegrave;re Vision’s New York show.

“If I didn’t have limitations, I would have gone crazy with sourcing my collection,” she said.

Warnock’s custom-made line, which launched last February and bows at retail this Fall, is hand sewn by a tailor in downtown Los Angeles. Bay Area retailers such as Annies on Sacramento Street in San Francisco and Pink Tangerine in Menlo Park, Calif., have placed July deliveries for Fall.

For information about the collection, call (415) 642-5043. —Claudia Figueroa