Intersection's Offerings Drive Traffic at L.A. Market

Plenty of buyers turned out to browse and shop during the April 1–6 run of Los Angeles Market Week, held at the four buildings anchoring the intersection of Ninth and Los Angeles streets: the California Market Center, The New Mart, the Cooper Design Space and the Gerry Building. The four showroom buildings have banded together to market the area as The Intersection, a one-stop shopping destination for retailers.

There was a slight overlap between Los Angeles Market Week and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios, held a few miles west in Culver City, Calif. But this did not seem to affect traffic downtown.

Indeed, CMC executives reported their highest increase in attendance in eight years, and The New Mart’s registered attendance climbed 100 percent. Even the new players on the block, the Cooper Design Space and the Gerry Building, were upbeat. And the trade shows exhibiting in the area—Designers & Agents, Brighte Underground, Urban/Suburban, Agenda and Pacific Coast Travelers—were similarly positive about market.

Fashion focus at CMC

Renewed interest in fashion items kept showrooms at the CMC hopping throughout the Fall ’04 market week. Many showroom reps reported some of the best business they have seen in years, while others said they were just overwhelmed.

“It was smoking,” said Michele Stojakovich, a rep for Crayola Sisters on the CMC’s second floor.

Building representatives said this year’s total attendance outscored last year’s by the third day of the show.

“They wanted newness and freshness,” said Gene Zuckerman, who reps several lines on the CMC’s fifth floor. He said he did well with new local lines such as ABL Couture, a denim collection, and Sledge, a line of T-shirts, denim and jackets from the former Melrose Avenue retailer.

“We saw buyers from Texas, Minnesota and New York,” Zuckerman said. “The stores coming in were happy. It’s the first time in a while that I saw such a strong reorder business and heard that stores are adding new branches.”

Theresa Matthew of the Theresa Matthew Studio experienced similar success in her fifth-floor showroom.

“We were slammed,” she said. “The economy seems good, at least for clothing. You’re seeing contemporary girls spending money on apparel, and I happen to have the lines they want.... My major [manufacturers] say business is incredible right now, and retail is off the wall.”

Matthew booked hot lines such as Hale Bob, Single and Anna Paul for May 30–Aug. 30 deliveries. Color, especially pink, was hot, along with anything that goes with denim, she said.

In the Fille showroom, Missy Arko also reported a busy show. She sold lots of denim from Horn, capelets from My Tee, pencil skirts from Harveys and retro outfits from new San Francisco resource Water Myth. “Everybody left orders. There weren’t any note-takers this time,” she said.

Misses showrooms focus on contemporary styles

Many buyers also wrote orders at the misses and updated showrooms on the second and third floors of the CMC.

“The buyers were looking for items and mostly immediate goods,” said Lynne Andresevic of Crayola Sisters. Novelty tanks by Alix & Maxx and novelty skirts by Hanna were among the showroom’s hot sellers.

Bentzi Gershon of the Moda Style showroom echoed Matthew’s observation that pink is in. “It’s the color of the year,” he said.

Gershon highlighted washable suede and denim jackets by Aziza, as well as stretch-cotton printed tops from domestic brand Cactus.

Herlinda Ellis and Bob and Sunny Meyerson of Studio III, on the newly remodeled third floor, said business was extraordinary. Among the standouts was Indonesian line Ika, which featured poly-satin sets with piping details, bubble jackets and tattered dresses. Suva’s sublimation prints, featuring images of world capitals, were also top performers.

Brighte Cos. heads underground

New York–based ENK International’s Brighte Cos. bowed its better contemporary and designer show last November in the CMC’s fashion theater and exhibit hall. This time, the company went completely underground, dubbing the show Brighte Underground and consolidating its resources into the lower-level exhibit hall.

“Last season there was confusion as to whether we were in the theater or the underground,” said ENK spokesman Coleman McCartan. “We wanted to be consolidated, so for the retailer there wouldn’t be any confusion.”

The scene at Brighte Underground was upbeat. More than 160 exhibitors––including Bill Blass Evening Separates, Puma’s Nuala collection and lingerie lines such as Nina Beri of West Hollywood, Calif.––showed their wares to an estimated 1,550 retailers, including Tracey Ross, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman and Macy’s.

While foot traffic was often brisk, some retailers, including Mary Aquilera of Beyond The Beyond in La Mesa, Calif., reported going to the show to research new lines rather than make purchases.

Sales agent Ryan Quinn of New York–based Futurenet felt the show could improve if it were scheduled earlier in the year.

“The show has done a nice job. Their attention to detail is fantastic,” Quinn said. “If this was scheduled a week earlier, it would make a huge difference. A lot of the bigger retailers have already seen people at fashion week in New York and [ENK’s Fashion] Coterie.”

PCT gets new location

Exhibitors who participated in the Pacific Coast Travelers show, which previously took place on the CMC’s 13th floor, enjoyed the new location on the third floor of the building’s C wing.

“I’m glad we’re down here. It’s a great location,” said Pat Muller of knitwear specialist PBJ Sportswear.

Several PCT exhibitors, however, said traffic was off, noting that much of their business was done in Las Vegas at the MAGIC International and Women’s Wear in Nevada shows.

San Francisco rep Lynn Anthony said most of the buyers at PCT looked for immediate goods. She said “mother-of-thebride” looks and three-piece suits from vendors such as Ell Jay performed well.

Urban/Suburban up

The fifth run of the biannual Urban/Suburban show, held on the fourth floor of the CMC’s C wing, was quiet and businesslike.

CMC Director of Merchandise Karen Mamont said retailer attendance at the recent urbanwear show climbed 7 percent from the last Urban/Suburban, held in October 2003.

Representatives of retailers such as Bernini, Gottschalks and Up Against theWall browsed through highly anticipated new lines, including G-Unit, Makaveli and Hoop Dreams.

Many retailers came to buy, including Jesse Henderson, a buyer from Backyard Boogie Hip Hop & Rock Wear, a two-store chain in California’s Riverside County. According to Henderson, labels such as Meoshe and clothes with a sports affiliation have been top sellers in the store.

Mamont said the next Urban/Suburban will be held during the beginning of the week so it will not interfere with weekend retail business.

Agenda on 11

The DJs playing records at Agenda, the alternative young men’s and young contemporary show, made floor 11B of the CMC sound like an indie rock club, and the show floor buzzed with fresh fashion ideas.

During Agenda’s April 1–3 run, some of the best and brightest new designer lines—including Apexmuseum of Long Beach, Calif., Klotheshorse of Los Angeles and Steve Vintage of New York—showed the latest fashions to retailers such as Up Against the Wall of Washington, D.C., and Jack’s Surf Shop of Huntington Beach, Calif., as well as Nordstrom and Robinsons-May.

Mamont said 50 exhibitors showed 62 clothing lines at the show. Numbers for retail attendance were unavailable, she said.

Stuart Ezrailson, co-owner of Up Against the Wall, wrote orders for apparel from Elwood, Stussy and Steve Vintage.

“We’re addicted to blazers,” Ezrailson joked, adding that military-style hats are also big sellers.

This was Agenda’s second showing at the CMC; the show held its first event in the building in January on the eighth floor. Moving Agenda to the 11th floor helped pave the way for the opening of two permanent showrooms, Steady Clothing Inc. and Afterburn, Mamont said.

The New Mart up 100 percent

Approximately 2,050 buyers visited The New Mart during market week, a 100 percent increase over attendance last year, according to manager Ethan Eller. Part of the draw, he said, was the $350,000 renovation and expansion into The Bank building on the ground floor, which now houses the Theory, Hatch and 10 Eleven showrooms. The New Mart also converted its 12th-floor loft space into showrooms to accommodate lines by Adriano Goldschmeid, Work in Progress and Mark Kanights, Eller said.

The Bank and the 12th floor were not the only areas with high-volume traffic. Sylvana Kessel of the Focus Showroom, on the 10th floor, said buyers from specialty boutiques and department stores visited the showroom to get an early read on contemporary trends. Buyers from Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel, Blonde and Priorities placed orders for novelty pieces. Dresses from Liya Cynamone, Maria Bianca Nero and Black Halo were at the top of buyers’ lists.

With a budget up about 20 percent for Fall merchandise, buyer Nancy Lee visited the Focus Showroom in search of contemporary styles for her retail chain, Soho Fashion Inc., which operates boutiques in Costa Mesa, Calif., Las Vegas and Chicago. Lee said the retailer, after offering new merchandise, increased sales 300 percent last year. The store offered young designer collections, made with quality fabrics, at lower price points than most contemporary labels, she added. Nikka’s beaded tunic, Liya Cynamone’s three-way silk charmeuse halter top and Central Park West’s cashmere cardigans were a few styles that she ordered for Summer and Fall deliveries.

Leila Ross Sales, on The New Mart’s 10th floor, counted a 30 percent sales increase over the same time last year, according to sales rep Helen Hannah. Buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom and Macy’s placed orders for novel styles from Ancient Spirit, Wednesday and Midi, she said.

Record-breaking traffic at D&A

Contemporary and young designer trade show Designers & Agents broke its attendance record this season with more than 1,700 registrants. “It’s a real sign of what’s to come [business-wise] in Los Angeles,” said Ed Mandelbaum, who launched D&A six years ago with business partner Barbara Kramer.

The show, divided between The New Mart and the Cooper Design Space, featured 180 booths and more than 300 companies. New exhibitors included Earnest Sewn, And Cake, Kiln Design Studio and Armand Diradourian Cashmere.

“Key buyers are here with varied taste levels, and they’re responding to what’s happening in the market right now,” said San Francisco designer Deborah Hampton.

Buyers also responded favorably to D&A’s soft launch of novelty home and gift lines. Organizers are planning a designated area with more exhibitors for the June market, Mandelbaum said.

At the show, D&A announced that it had partnered recently with Japan’s Independent Fashion Cooperative Association (IFCA) to form an international association and launch a biannual shopping trade event called D&A Lab. Mandelbaum said the partnership is part of D&A’s efforts to diversify its offerings and simultaneously enter new markets. The first event will take place April 14–16 at Modapolitica in Tokyo.

New showrooms at Cooper

“Newness” was the byword at the Cooper Design Space, which welcomed three new showrooms for market week—Major De*lema, The News and Apriori—as well as temporary collective showrooms, according to leasing agent Mona Sangkala. Traffic was moderate with buyers taking copious notes and placing orders for immediate and Summer deliveries, according to reps.

Sleeveless tops with novelty details proved to be strong sellers for Summer/Transition at Major De*lema’s first-floor showroom, which reported sales of more than $60,000 for its edgy novelty T-shirts and bottoms line. Buyers from Scoop in New York, Out of the West in Chicago and Macy’s East placed several orders for July 30 deliveries, designer Jeanine Nguyen said.

On the second floor, the EM Productions showroom— which carries lines by young designers Oligo Tissew, Grey Ant, Circle by Mara Hoffman, Rachel Pally and Botkier—buzzed with buyers. Several retailers, less cautious than in previous seasons, were eager to test lines by new designers, according to showroom co-owner Lisa Elliot. Buyers from Madison in Los Angeles booked a $12,000 order for matte jersey tops and dresses by newcomer Rachel Pally, Elliot said.

Alisa Loftin, owner of Aero & Co. in Los Angeles, came to the Cooper Design Space to place orders for current young designer resources Grey Ant, Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent and Nathalie Saphier. Loftin, whose budget is up 20 percent, said she is focusing on eveningwear for Fall.

Momentum building at Gerry

The buzz at the Gerry Building could be found in Mark Encinias’ new Scam-Co showroom, where he showed tees and tanks bearing old comic-book advertisements for products such as X-ray-vision glasses, whoopee cushions and joy buzzers. Encinias’ basic tees, cami sets, muscle tees and tanks wholesale from $13 to $29.

“We’re also trying to appeal to the men’s market because they’re the comic-book readers,” he said. “The product stands well on its own, too, even though a lot of young women aren’t familiar with these products.

“Everybody’s positive [at this market],” he added. “The Gerry Building is definitely coming along.”