The 411 on Industry (212)

Bright outlook at show’s January run

NEW YORK—Break out the sunglasses and dust off those old ’80s records because the forecast for Spring/Summer ’04 calls for day-glo colors in styles made especially for girls who “just wanna have fun.” Scared? Don’t be. Because these wearable colors aren’t the fluorescents of the past but rather cheerful brights in irresistible styles that will make you look forward to the near future.

It was all on display at Industry (212), the apparel and accessories trade show held Jan. 11–13 at the Jacob Javits Convention Center in New York. Retailers shopped the 500 or so exhibitors showcasing more than 3,000 lines. Categories included juniors and young contemporary, streetwear, contemporary/ better contemporary, casual lifestyle and accessories.

Show organizers said attendance was up 15 percent from the January ’03 show. The more than 8,000 buyers and retailers included major department and specialty stores Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Nordstrom, Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue; a slew of specialty chains and boutiques; and a few international buyers.

Exhibitors showed everything from miniskirts to flip-flops, but the highlight on the show floor was undoubtedly the popularity of vibrant, happy color. Los Angeles–based juniors and young contemporary manufacturers Hot Sauce and Damoda, as well as Long Beach, Calif.–based Just In Time, were standouts in the crowd. The three also happened to be winners of Industry (212)’s Profile Awards, which recognize leaders and innovators among the show’s exhibitors, as decided by a panel of industry editor judges. This year’s panel of judges included Natalie Warady, style editor of Budget Living; Loredana Buonopane, accessories editor of Seventeen; and Ionia Dunn Lee, fashion editor of Essence.

For Hot Sauce, winner of the Junior Mode Award, bright novelty and retro-inspired items were all the rage. Best-selling styles included a candy-apple green, yellow and orange color-blocked blouson tube; a flirty flutter-sleeve top in candyapple green and yellow; and halters.

Skirts were also the hot ticket, according to East Coast sales rep Debbie Weiss, “We’re definitely selling more minis than knee-length,” she said. A bubble skirt with a thin, multicolor striped pattern ranked high on the list of top sellers.

Boutiques and specialty chains such as Urban Outfitters were among those shopping the line.

Just In Time, which picked up the Young Contemporary Award, displayed looks covering the gamut of young contemporary trends: bright colors, including fuchsia, Kelly green, yellow and turquoise; ’40s-inspired femininity, found in floral poplin tops with ribbon sashing, flared skirts and capris; and graphic, often ’80s-esque pop-art prints on solid and mesh tops.

“The show has been really, really good. Very busy,” said designer Ramee Whang, who was thrilled about receiving the award. “We’re constantly getting new customers at this show.”

Sales were very positive for Seattle–based Kali Wear, as well. The company’s denim motorcycle jackets and pastelcolored canvas and corduroy jackets—offered in a pretty palette of dusty violet, glacier blue, baby pink, misty fern and white—not only earned the company the Denim Flair Award but also kept reps busy writing orders all day Sunday. “Yesterday we couldn’t even get out of the booth,” said sales rep Trisha Kiblinger.

Jackets wholesale for $18 to $26, while skirts and shirts wholesale for about $12.

Juniors label Damoda, which received the Casual Lifestyle Award, was aglow with stylish, sassy looks that Sales Manager Gus Corral described as “very Betsey Johnson–influenced.”

For Spring/Summer, Damoda offered color and ’80s influences in cutesy lace-trimmed camis (some with polka-dot mesh overlays or stripes); T-shirts and off-the-shoulder tops with graphics of women’s faces; Bermuda shorts and capris in sugar- coated hues of blue, red and green; and, of course, miniskirts.

“Can’t get enough of them,” said Corral, who sold everything from crinkled-voile versions to “cheerleader” styles. “We’re selling anything that has to do with the ’80s and bright colors.”

Wholesale prices for the line range from $7 for tops to $10 to $15 for bottoms.

“It’s going to be a good year,” Corral predicted.

Shoe show

Irvine, Calif.–based Sugar Shoes and Extra Fine Sugar (Sugar’s trendier footwear label) did not receive an award, but that did not stop retailers from eating them up.

“The show’s been good,” said Vice President of Sales Nilofar King, who hardly had a moment to sit and talk. “We’re booking all the way through March and April, as well as at once.”

Specialty stores, which King said made up most of the retailers he had been dealing with, couldn’t get enough of styles such as “Top Dog,” a flat, pointy, slip-on canvas sneaker (available in both lines) offered in a variety of colorways, including a sherbet-pink/green combo; Extra Fine Sugar’s “Floaty,” a daintyheeled version of Sugar’s original “Floaty,” a super-cushy flip-flop that won’t sink in the water; and Sugar’s oh-so-adorable printed flip-flops.

Los Angeles–based N.Y.L.A. Shoes, located in the show’s streetwear section, also did well with its dainty women’s shoes. Pastel-colored heels with leather flowers and a variety of Sabrinaheel styles, including a patentleather sling-back laced with pink ribbon, were among buyers’ favorites, as were funky mod-style flats. On the other foot, sexy S&M–inspired pumps adorned with hardware also sizzled.

Streetwear slow

For some exhibitors in the streetwear section, enthusiasm was not as strong.

Los Angeles–based Couture, The Clothing Co., a contemporary young menswear line known for its novelty long-sleeved dress shirts, reported strong sales on Monday, including a 50 percent increase in new accounts. But owner Carlo Gholami said sales overall were off. “If I had to compare it to last year, I’d have to say we were 50 percent down,” he said.

Gholami said the streetwear section of the show was not as strong as it had been last year and traffic overall at the show was slow. Still, he said his men’s shirts were selling. Specialty boutiques such as Trash & Vaudeville in New York and Wicked Monkey in Indianapolis were just a couple of the retailers that shopped the line. Bestsellers were retro ’60s-style prints.

David Jaskey—president of Incognito Eyewear, a Detroit, Mich.–based eyewear manufacturer and retailer—mirrored Gholami’s opinion. Jaskey, a veteran of the show since it was produced by the Larkin Group in 1969, said he has definitely seen a decrease in size and traffic in the streetwear area.

The streetwear category itself is often hard to distinguish, especially with the growing number of subcategories that can exist under its banner. Show organizers said they are aware of this and are making efforts to create and build a more exciting environment within the section. “It’s an area that we would definitely like to see grow,” said Marilyn Harrington, general manager of the show.

Harrington noted that many companies, including Los Angeles–based Lip Service and East Rutherford, N.J.–based Funk Plus, reported doing very well.

Overall, the show proved to be a successful one. Exhibitors wrote orders and opened new accounts, buyers bought, and the business of fashion got done.

And as Mangue Banzima, owner of small boutique Body Language in New York’s Long Island, put it, “I’m just here trying to bring the fashion to Long Island.”

Winners of Industry (212)’s January 2004 Profile Awards

Sportswear Award: Silk Box, West Windsor, N.J.Better/Contemporary Award: Tracy Mulheron, Plymouth, Mass.Innovation Award: Julieta Miro Design, MiamiInternational Award: Vestipar, BrazilJunior Mode Award: Hot Sauce, Los AngelesAccessories Award: Aya Zakura, Brooklyn, N.Y.Denim Flair Award: Kali Wear, SeattleStreet Style Award: Plain Jane, Wooster, OhioYoung Contemporary Award: Just In Time, Long Beach, Calif.Casual Lifestyle Award: Damoda, Los Angeles