California Apparel News

Los Angeles is a great boutique town—there are iconic specialty stores spread across the city and throughout the Southern California region.

But that wasn’t always the case. Twenty years ago, Southern California department stores such as Buffums and Bullocks ruled the area. But during the retail consolidation of the 1980s, those stores either closed or merged into bigger operations. Consumer choice became a victim in some of the consolidations.

“All of those stores developed in matrix of sameness,” said Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California Fashion Association. “It was same buy and same fit, supplied by a distribution system that was controlled by no one who was living in the region.”

The field became wide open for specialty stores that could provide a much-needed alternative. The stores could be perfectly tailored to Southern California’s diverse communities, said Ron Herman, owner of Ron Herman–Fred Segal Melrose and the forerunner of Los Angeles’ specialty store movement.

“We’re not an urban town. We’re suburban, spread out,” Herman said. “Specialty stores take care of small communities such as surf, sport, yoga, ocean, beach and Hollywood.”

The boutiques’ zip codes also give them more cachet, Herman said. And that cachet has reverberated beyond Southern California into the national and international consciousness.

“Los Angeles is the focus of the fashion world today,” Herman said. “It’s the way we live. It’s not just the American dream—it’s the world’s dream.”

California Apparel News has selected 10 of the most intriguing (and in many cases, most successful) boutiques in Los Angeles. These stores consistently champion new designers, draw crowds of both fashionistas and average folks, and help to define Los Angeles style.

Beige 7274 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles (corner of Poinsettia Place) (323) 549-0064 Owners: Tina Messex and Kelly Herz Year opened: 2000 Fashion focus: Contemporary and designer Lines carried/unique merchandise: Louis Verdad, Michelle Mason, Binetti, The Jacksons, Sampleline, Eunice, Park Vogel, Tina Messex, Wai Ching and Gary Graham Price points: $22 for a European tank top; $1,000 for a Gary Graham dress Atmosphere: Like your best friend’s walk-in closet—if your best friend has exquisite taste Clientele: 20- to early 50-yearolds, Hollywood people, businesswomen, actresses and young artists Owner also recommends: “Denim Doctors on Third Street [in Los Angeles],” Herz said. “You can get great vintage denims. American Rag is great—they have a great mix of vintage clothing and new clothing. Most of what I like about them is they’re so close to our store.”

Black & Blue 2711 Main St., Santa Monica (between Ashland Avenue and Hill Street) (310) 664-9400 Owners: Darrell Rae and Jody Gabbard Year opened: 2001 Fashion focus: Denim and eclectic contemporary young men’s merchandise Lines carried/unique merchandise: Howe, Agave, G-Star, Energie, Paper Denim & Cloth, Adriano Goldschmied, Trovata, Crispy, Velvet, James Perse, Rufus and Seal Kay Price points: $30 for T-shirts, $80 to $250 for denim, $150 for shirts and $1,000 for leather jackets Atmosphere: Roomy lounge colored by satisfying dark hues Clientele: 20- to 40-year-old men; many have professional degrees but are too hip to work in an office Owner also recommends: “B.NY in Santa Monica,” Gabbard said. “It’s very artistic in the design of the store and the clothing. I love to go in there, peruse and occasionally part with some money for a beautiful shirt.”

Bleu 454 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles (corner of Sixth Avenue) (323) 939-2228 Owner: Gabrielle Zuccaro Year opened: 1998 Fashion focus: Designer and contemporary Lines carried/unique merchandise: Miguelina, Michelle Mason, Tom Nguyen, Anna Sui, Ya Ya, Development, Chip & Pepper and Oliver Twist Price points: $50 for a tank top to $1,000 for a long black evening gown Atmosphere: Clean, minimalist and airy Clientele: Fashion-forward women, actresses, Hollywood agents and professionals Owner also recommends: “Lisa Kline,” Zuccaro said. “She has a lot of the same designers I carry but different pieces. Traffic at Beverly Center and Sunset Plaza. They carry a lot of European designers and a lot of avant-garde pieces. You can mix them with jeans and make the avant-garde pieces more casual and funky.”

Kitson 115 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles (between Third Street and Alden Drive) (310) 859-2652 Owner: Fraser Ross Year opened: 2001 Fashion focus: Casual contemporary, with an emphasis on American pop culture Lines carried/unique merchandise: Great China Wall, St. Tropez, 2 B Free, Juicy Couture, L.A.M.B., Hudson and True Religion Price points: $38 for a T-shirt to $3,000 for a leather jacket Atmosphere: A colorful mini department store packed with entertaining surprises Clientele: Beverly Hills rich kids to hip 50-year-olds Owner also recommends: “Honestly, I check out everyone. I find inspiration in everything,” Ross said, but he did provide a list. “Fred Segal Santa Monica. It’s like entertainment shopping. They’ve got little sections, just like my store. American Rag. It’s an L.A. store. It addresses the L.A. customers, and tourists go there, too. There’s a mixture of everything new and old. I also like to go to Santee Alley to see what they’re knocking off.”

Lisa Kline 136 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles (between Third Street and Alden Drive) (310) 385-7113 Owner: Lisa Kline Year opened: 1995 Fashion focus: Designer and contemporary Lines carried/unique merchandise: Yanuk, Notify, Splendid, Noelle, Jasmine, Foley, Eisbar, Juicy Couture, Cosa Bella, Only Hearts, Rebecca Taylor, Blue Cult, Paper Denim & Cloth, Joe’s, Fred Perry and Lisa Kline private label Price points: $20 for underwear to $650 for a high-end jacket Atmosphere: A warm deacute;cor and casual vibe mixed with a busy and businesslike shopping experience Clientele: 14- to 60-year-old hip, casual women Owner also recommends: “Curve on Robertson and Kate Daniels in Seal Beach, [Calif.],” Kline said. “The owners are great girls. They have great taste and great style. Curve has been on the street for a long time. Its sexy, eclectic clothes make a statement. Kate Daniels is for a woman who shares my taste.”

Monkie 2665 Main St., Santa Monica (corner of Hill Street) (310) 450-4512 Owner: Alison Nitschke Year opened: 2000 Fashion focus: Contemporary designer Lines carried/unique merchandise: Fornarina, G-Sus, Hudson, Anja Flint, Rebecca Beeson, Renee Bardot, Yen, Sheri Bodell, and one-of-a-kind knit and crochet ponchos and shawls Price points: $40 for T-shirts and tanks to $400 for coats with embroidery and trim Atmosphere: Bright, fresh and airyClientele: 20- to 45-year-old working omen; many are in the film and music industry, but some are stay-at-home moms.Owner also recommends: “Minni Tee’s on Abbot Kinney [in Venice, Calif.],” Nitschke said.“Owner Barbara Phillips has a good eye. Her target market is slightly older, but it’s very hip and fashionable.She buys from higher-end lines and brings in a lot of European lines, as well.”

Ron Herman–Fred Segal Melrose 8100 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles (at Crescent Heights Avenue) (323) 651-4129 Owner: Ron Herman Year opened: 1960 Fashion focus: Designer, contemporary and sportswear Lines carried/unique merchandise: Adriano Goldschmied, Helmut Lang, Paper Denim & Cloth, Juicy Couture, Marc Jacobs and house line RH Vintage Price points: $10 for T-shirts to $4,000 for suits Atmosphere: At once casual and sophisticated Clientele: Hollywood insiders, funky locals and sophisticated tourists from around the world Owner also recommends: “I’d have to give that a lot of thought,” Herman mused. “There are a lot of wonderful stores.”

Scout 7920 W. Third St., Los Angeles (at Fairfax Avenue) (323) 658-8684 Owners: Greg Armas and Joey Grana Year opened: 2003 Fashion focus: Young contemporary with an emphasis on designers Lines carried/unique merchandise: Society for Rational Dress, Ladies of the Canyon, Charizmatik, Looseleaf, Nobleman and We Are Lucid Dreaming Price points: $40 for knit tops to $600 for cutto- order pieces from We Are Lucid Dreaming Atmosphere: A clothing store with the invigorating feel of a designer’s loftClientele: 25- to 35-year-old men and women, stylists and the Hollywood crowd Owner also recommends: “Crow in Long Beach, [Calif.],” Armas said. “They get some rare Japanese streetwear.”

Show Pony 1543 Echo Park Ave., Los Angeles (two blocks north of Sunset Boulevard) (213) 482-7676 Owner: Kime Buzzelli Year opened: 2000 Fashion focus: One-of-a-kind art-influenced pieces Lines carried/unique merchandise: Madley, Luxury Jones, Show Pony, Fancy Pony Land, Run Riot, Pink Feathers, Sarah Perry and Gardenia Price points: $35 to $125 for tops; $70 to $300 for dresses Atmosphere: Inviting yet funky art gallery Clientele: Echo Park bohos and artsy 18- to 40-year-olds Owner also recommends: “I generally like to shop at flea markets and thrift stores,” Buzzelli said. “Aero & Co. is a good, polished boutique. They carry one-of-a-kind pieces with a highly distinguished cut. I like The Kids Are All Right. It’s a store that’s meant to look like a classroom. The cash register is a teacher’s desk.”

Yellow 605 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles (between Melrose Avenue and Clinton Street) (323) 525-0362 Owner: Helen Hwang Year opened: 1999 Fashion focus: Eclectic contemporary, designer and vintage Lines carried/unique merchandise: Sass & Bie, Ladies of the Canyon and Tufi Duek and eveningwear from Gharani Strok, Ungaro Fuschia and Pegah Anvarian Price points: $24 for T-shirts and tanks; $200 to $4,000 for dresses Atmosphere: A witty, beautiful salon Clientele: Fashion-forward teenagers and their casual, conservative moms Owner also recommends: “I don’t get to shop here,” Hwang said. “If I’m not working, I’m playing. When I travel, I shop Goodwill stores in my hometown of Shelby, Ohio. I love stores around the world. I just got back to Tokyo and Seoul. I stayed in Shibuya in Tokyo. It’s very fresh. The energy is amazing.”