California Apparel News

LYON, FRANCE—When Southern California lingerie designer Diane Samandi went to France 12 years ago to attend Lyon, Mode City, she was a rare species: an American with a booth at the lingerie and swimwear trade show.

All of that has changed.

“I believe I was the first American exhibiting here,” said Samandi, who founded upscale lingerie line Jonquil, based in Santa Monica, Calif. “It was a small, regional show. Now it’s getting to be about the same size as the Paris show [Salon International de la Lingerie],” she said.

Samandi was one of a slew of international lingerie, swimwear and textile people who descended on Lyon for the Sept. 4–6 run of Lyon, Mode City and Interfiliegrave;re at the Euroexpo convention center.

More than 22,000 people, including scores of Americans, were expected to attend, up from approximately 16,000 last year. The number of lingerie and swimwear resources grew 5 percent, and the fabric resources showing at Interfiliegrave;re grew 14 percent, according to show organizer Eurovet.

In the swim section, the number of brands expanded from 460 last year to 470 this year.

This was Lyon, Mode City’s 20th year, and several longtime exhibitors mentioned how the show has grown from a regional lingerie show to a premier European lingerie and swimwear event similar to its sister show, Salon, held in Paris in January.

“The show has really grown in the last five years,” said Maurice Triquet, vice president of international sales and marketing for New York–based lingerie giant Maidenform Inc. “The turnout of quality, major accounts in European markets, Asia and the world gives us great exposure each year.”

Lyon, Mode City and Salon are the only trade shows Maidenform attends, said Triquet, noting that company executives typically meet with overseas distributors and existing European accounts in Lyon. Maidenform’s sales staff, working out of the New York showroom, handles the company’s U.S. sales.

“Everyone we expected to visit us has been at the show,” Triquet said. “The major decision makers for distribution in Europe come to the show to see the people they want to do business with.”

Maidenform introduced the color bronze into its bodycolored products line, which already includes blush and beige. The company’s selection of “everyday bras” is well positioned in department stores and large specialty stores worldwide.

Samandi of Jonquil said the show allows her to meet with her accounts in the Middle East, where she said she is in “every country except Iraq and Iran.” Jonquil’s romantic lingerie and sleepwear line resonates well with Middle Eastern customers, she said, adding that the company has key stores in most major European cities, as well.

In the United States, Samandi’s biggest accounts are Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, but she also does business with specialty stores such as Vionnet on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles.

At the show, Jonquil presented its latest collection aimed at the crossover ready-to-wear market: a line of brightly colored camisoles trimmed in French lace.

Other exhibitors included major lingerie brands Cosabella, Huit, Princess Tam Tam, Cacharel, Lulu Castagnette, Lise Charmel and Naf-Naf and designer lines Calvin Klein, Versace, Roberto Cavalli, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Alberta Ferretti and Moschino. Swimwear lines included Aubade, Anne Cole, Christina, Gottex, Ravage, Speedo and Vix.

But there was also plenty of room for new exhibitors such as Bennett & Co. of Newburyport, Mass. The company has been doing private label for 25 years, according to designer Hilary Mahoney, who manned the booth with designer and marketing executive Rose Andrade and Chief Operating Officer Brenda Marchi. The company produced the Jacalyn Bennett for Frederick’s of Hollywood collection for several years before launching Jacalyn Bennett as a stand-alone brand. The moderate- to high-priced collection—which includes romantic lace-trimmed sleepwear, corsetry, robes and casual loungewear—made its European debut at the show.

“We were planning to do Salon and at the last minute decided to do this show,” said Marchi. The company got a boost in business by including a trio of pieces in the fashion show, held in a large tent steps from the Bennett & Co. booth. Buyers exiting the fashion tent could head straight to the company’s booth.

In the swim

Last year, Lyon, Mode City emphasized surf brands, including the French licensees of Southern California brands Roxy and O’Neill. Both brands opted out of this year’s show. But there were plenty of other beach-themed swim brands, including French label DDP.

San Francisco–based action-sports label Matix had a presence through its French subsidiary, which also distributes DUS Shoes in France, Belgium and Spain. The company set up a vintage silver minibus near the booth, emblazoned with the Matix logo and the word “Francisco” across the front.

Sales assistant Audrey Neutre said the company returned to Lyon, Mode City for the second year to build its boardshorts business. “We have a surf team, and it’s important to us to show interest in that movement,” she said.

Ron Solomon, owner of Los Angeles–based swim labels California Waves and Pink Sands, attended the show for the first time looking for European distributors and agents. “We have had some interest from small retailers and have seen a couple of existing European accounts,” he said, adding that the company’s European distribution is currently small and based in the United Kingdom, Switzerland and Spain.

“It’s a very good show; traffic seems good,” said Solomon, who on opening day posted a sign at his booth explaining that he was looking to meet distributors and agents. “But, like any show, you probably have to show consistently.”

Crossing over to Interfiliegrave;re

Many Lyon, Mode City exhibitors also visited the adjacent fabric show, Interfiliegrave;re.

Samandi, designer and owner of Jonquil, said she shops Interfiliegrave;re for French lace while exhibiting at Lyon, Mode City. The selection is wide enough to make it the only fabric show she regularly attends.

While French lace suppliers were in full force, New York–based lace manufacturer Klauber Bros. was back for its 10th year at the show. “This is always an excellent show. The world comes here,” said Don Clinton, sales agent for Canada.

Clinton said the company typically meets at least a half-dozen new customers at the show as well as existing international customers. “At this show, you find new clients and the mother lode of all customers,” he said.

Klauber Bros. produces its line in Rhode Island and New Jersey and has operations in New York, Dominican Republic, Mexico and China. Despite the stiff competition from the French lace makers, Clinton said the company did well at the show in part because its prices were 20 percent to 40 percent below those of some French resources.

Interfiliegrave;re’s exhibitor base of fiber suppliers drew Margo Charlton, design director for Montrealbased knit resource Tricot Liesse, who attended the show for the second time. She said she met with fiber suppliers such as Invista to gauge future trends, as well as with accounts such as Gottex, Skechers, Christina and Warnaco.

Wilmington, Del.–based Invista once again set up a large booth in the intimate apparel section to promote its new developments.

On the lingerie side, Invista is continuing its wellness program, which offers fibers with wellness or health benefits—such as moisturizing, freshness and massage properties— according to Valerie Mackie, Invista account manager for brand and retail marketing.

Moisturizing properties include microencapsulated aloe vera that helps prevent chafing, as well as a fiber that provides moisture and massage benefits through microencapsulated vitamin E.

Invista provides freshness through several products: CoolMax fiber, which wicks moisture away from the body; CoolMax Sensations, which includes microencapsulated menthol; Outlast Technology, which regulates thermodynamics; and Fresh FX, which includes fibers spun with silver particles to provide natural and permanent antibacterial properties and eliminate odors.

On the swim side of the business, Invista is working on a version of Lycra that the company claims will retain its fit longer than other spandex fibers even after repeated exposure to sun and chlorine. The fiber, called Type 275B, has longer power retention than other stretch fibers, said Ninabeth Sowell, business manager for swimwear for North America. The company is currently working on a consumer-friendly name and related hangtags and labeling “to help retailers get the story across.”

Invista also launched its Tactel Universe product line, a brights story for its branded Tactel nylon. The line includes a new level of brightness and a soft hand, Sowell said.