L.A. Fashion Week Fall '05: Juuml;nker Designs

Halfway across town and miles away ideologically from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios, designers Tod Waters and Giuliana Mayo showcased their Juuml;nker Designs collection in an outreacute; runway show that redefined edgy. The show was held during a fund-raiser at the Avalon nightclub for children’s charity The Cheshire Project.

Those who made the trek to Hollywood on March 18 got a sampling of the 4-year-old Los Angeles line’s custom-designed rock ’n’ roll styles, which sell in boutiques such as Fred Segal Santa Monica and Cat Walk and have garnered celebrity fans, including Pink and Johnny Depp.

New York–based cosmetics company Tony & Tina signed on as a sponsor and created a mud-splattered, roadside-glam look for the models. The show struck a fetish note with a pair of models in pasties made from feathers and electrical tape, but at the core of the collection was a mix of intricately detailed leather, sexy denim sportswear, screen-printed tees and lace-trimmed lingerie.

For men, leather was distressed; screen-printed; and embellished with zippers, grommets and lacing. There were also men’s denim pants in black with screen-printed graphics.

For women, the designers included several subtler pieces, including a denim mermaid skirt with reverse seams and a scattering of red paillettes at the hem and a pieced-leather blazer with peaked shoulders, an extended collar and screen printing. —Alison A. Nieder