California Apparel News

Adriano Goldschmied is getting ready for his golden years. At an age when many people are preparing to retire, the 61-year-old Goldschmied is about to ship high-end denim, sateen trousers, crepe de chine tops and technologically special leather jackets, among other items, for his new GoldSign label.

Goldschmied has been the owner or designer of several renowned companies—including Diesel, Replay and, most recently, AG Adriano Goldschmied—in a career that has spanned more than 30 years. His latest Los Angeles–based venture will feature its own laundry, prices that are 40 percent higher than those of his previous collections and approximately 350 global accounts, including E Street Denim Co. in Highland Park, Ill.; Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif.; San Francisco’s Villains Vault; Barneys New York; Boston’s Louis; and Selfridges in London.

Retailer Randy Brewer said you almost cannot say “no” to a line with Goldschmied’s name on it. “His track record is impeccable,” said Brewer, the general manager of denim-driven Villains Vault, which has been carrying Goldschmied’s designs since the store opened in 1986.

Brewer said he ordered jeans with embroidered pockets and straight, boot-cut and flared legs for women and basic jeans with straight legs for men. The washes were not outrageous, he said. “I’m glad he pulled back a little bit and didn’t overdo the bleaching or splatters or anything like that,” he said.

The women’s line will begin shipping July 30 for Fall 2005 and will include as many as 40 styles. Wholesale prices for the women’s collection are $28 to $45 for tops, $85 to $120 for jeans and $350 for leather jackets. The men’s collection will bow for Fall 2005 with only three styles of jeans. Wholesale prices range from $88 to $129, and the line begins shipping Aug. 30. But Goldschmied said he will present the full men’s collection for Spring 2006 at Project Global Trade Show’s New York event in July.

The launch of Goldschmied’s company surely will propel innovation and design in the premium denim market, which has experienced a boom in sales and vendors since he helped pioneer the category at Diesel. “Internationally, in the premium denim market, American brands—I would say, Los Angeles brands—are dominating the market,” he said, noting that there is “still room for new brands.”

That faith—and market research—led Goldschmied to double his financial projections for first-year shipments to $15 million to $18 million.

Goldschmied said he decided to spend $1 million to open his own wash house, called Laundry Atelier, in Vernon, Calif., because he wanted to handle all research and development and maintain confidentiality and quality control. He said one technological development was a process blending genuine leather with a stretch knit “to make the leather stretch.” His company has approximately 24 employees.

Steven Shaul, a friend of Goldschmied’s who previously worked at Jordache and now designs the denim line Jelessy, said Goldschmied not only understands the business but also works from his heart and soul.

“Sometimes he’s too forward for people to understand,” Shaul said. “He’s definitely one of the most talented denim producers in the world that I know.”

Shaul, who has his own laundry and finishing facilities, said Goldschmied’s decision to open a laundry underscores his experience and knowledge. “You have to have the talent and know what to do with [a laundry]. Not many people know what to do with it,” Shaul said.

Goldschmied said his ambition is “to have a luxury casual contemporary brand.” He is primed for the adventure. “I feel like I have a lot of energy,” he said. —Khanh T.L. Tran