California Apparel News

Known for his edgy rock ’n’ roll clothing, Jeff Sebelia has refined the look of Cosa Nostra into a more wearable line with cleaner styling. Sebelia made his grand entrance onto the fashion scene with his dark Gothic music video–style installation during Gen Art’s “The New Garde” event in March 2004.

The former art director and production designer created the show based on a post-apocalyptic “Grapes of Wrath” theme. Layers of smoke covered his edgy ensemble of characters, who staggered through a barren forest scene. For added effect, the avantgarde rocker gear was tricked out with heavy zippers, patches and spray paint.

But Cosa Nostra is not all dark-themed theatrics. The collection, which Sebelia launched with stylist Michel Berandi, was made up of custom reconstructed vintage pieces sold at Maxfield and Fred Segal. The line gained notoriety with a celebrity following that reads like a who’s who of rock ’n’ roll. Steven Tyler of Aerosmith, the Rolling Stones, Marilyn Manson, Lenny Kravitz and Jennifer Lopez, as well as members of Jane’s Addiction, The Red Hot Chili Peppers and No Doubt are just some of the celebrities on Cosa Nostra’s clientele roster.

“What I hope to create, if it were conscious, are clothes for those who relate to freedom, rebellion, creation and self-expression,” said the designer. “I’m usually just pigeonholed as edgy rock ’n’ roll. I like to take the edgy part of that and be much more fashion than rock ’n’ roll, just because that’s only one part of who I am.”

Sebelia, who is inspired by Yojhi Yamamoto, Commes des Garcons, Rick Owens and John Galliano, would like to be regarded as a designer who creates high-end, edgy rock ’n’ roll fashion.

A former musician himself, Sebelia played in a punk band as a kid and with Interscope’s indie rock band Lifter for five years. But Sebelia discovered he had a penchant for fashion. “For as long as I can remember, I’ve always been a designer or an artist of some sort. I’ve always had a secret passion to make clothes.” He decided to explore the fashion world by taking sewing classes at Los Angeles Trade-Technical College. “Turns out I love it,” he said. “I love just making clothes.”

The line, which Sebelia now designs solo, launched a little more than two years ago and is based on such staples as the original reconstructed pieces, including motorcycle and military jackets and blazers. This season, Sebelia is taking the line in a new, less-theatrical direction. “I’m trying to make things that are more wearable,” he said. “It all started just as something fun and crazy. I never made anything in the past that I would wear unless I was on stage or in a video. Now I wear pretty much everything I make.” The clothes are still edgy but now have a cleaner look with subtle details.

For men, the line includes blazers in velvet and cotton with leather trims, denim and leather jackets, as well as a camouflage military-style field jacket embellished with zippers, patches and a wax finish, which is being snatched up by buyers. His signature patches are whip stitched, studs are fewer and fabrics are mixed for a tone-on-tone look. Jeans and jackets are over-dyed and waxed for a monochromatic, subdued effect. The line also includes graphic-printed and striped T-shirts and plaid trousers with a Gothic flavor.

For his women’s styles, there has been a lot more latitude to explore different silhouettes. The line has expanded to include designer separates such as tops, skirts and feminine silk chiffon dresses that can be paired with his rocker-style blazers and denim and leather motorcycle jackets. The new versatility of the line makes a plaid cotton blazer and matching Capri pant suitable for the office, a rock concert or night out on the town. Other stylish pieces include a cotton plaid short jumpsuit and a long, lightweight raincoat. Casual offerings include solid and striped cotton tees and French terry hoodies that pair perfectly with denim. Jeans are made in faded indigo, dark indigo and gray denim and have a waxy finish with distressing and repair stitching.

The line is carried at Maxfield and BNY in the Los Angeles area and If and Atrium in New York. Wholesale prices are $300–$750 for jackets and blazers, $275–$500 for dresses, $125–$250 for trousers, $40–$55 for T-shirts and $125 for denim jeans. For more information, call (213) 892-1588. —N. Jayne Seward