Knit-to-Shape Sweaters Under Scrutiny

One positive element coming out of the recently negotiated U.S.-China textile agreement is that knit-to-shape sweaters coming from China will not be subject to quota.

That’s the good news. The bad news is that U.S. Customs officials will be scrutinizing knitto- shape sweater shipments to make sure the goods adhere to the various requirements laid down in the agreement.

One of the overriding characteristics is that the sweaters must be made on a flatbed knitting machine and come off the machine in exactly the form used in the garment. There can be no cutting or trimming done to the garment.

“We anticipate that there will be many instances in which importers claiming eligibility for the quota exemption will be denied such treatment either because of a failure to adhere to each and every element of the required standard or because of interpretive issues that may arise,” wrote Arthur Bodek, an attorney with the New York law firm Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP, which handles a number of Customs issues.

Bodek recently advised importers to focus on these elements when determining whether their knit-to-shape sweaters can come in quota free:

bull; All components need to be knit-to-shape, including collars, plackets, cuffs, waistbands and pockets.

bull; Crocheted elements such as sleeves and necklines may be disqualified.

bull; The stitch count for knit-to-shape sweaters must exceed nine stitches per 2 centimeters but can’t be more than 18 stitches per 2 centimeters as measured on the outer surface of the fabric in the direction the stitches are formed.

bull; Each intersection of knit-to-shape components must be looped and linked, including pockets, collars and cuffs.

Deborah Belgum