Radical Chic in Berkeley

BERKELEY, Calif.—Think Berkeley fashion and you might conjure up images of ’60s radicals or bookish university students.

But Berkeley’s Fourth Street is far across town from Telegraph Avenue, the famed counterculture hub and meeting point for Berkeley residents and students from the University of California, Berkeley.

In contrast, Fourth Street is “kind of an oasis in the middle of nowhere,” said Perry Tell, co-owner of boutique Elisa Wen. “Some people would say it’s not even intrinsic to Berkeley.”

Elisa Wen opened its first store three years ago in the tony East Bay suburb of Walnut Creek. Owners Tell and wife Elisabeth Wen-Tell opened their second store at 1799-A Fourth Street four months ago.

Fourth Street was originally industrial but became hip once artists moved into the neighborhood. Now the area is prized throughout the Bay Area for providing an original and upscale shopping experience.

Encompassing 16 square blocks and 130 businesses, Fourth Street includes national chains such as MAC Cosmetics and CP Shades, shoe store Rabat, fashion boutique Molly B., lingerie store Isabelle, plus-size and missy store April Cornell, Hydra Bath and Body, plus the requisite mix of fine restaurants, hair salons, design studios, and home furnishings and antiques stores.

At Elisa Wen, shoppers are falling for LAMB by Gwen Stefani, embracing the line’s classic items embellished with punky zippers and buckles. “It’s for the twentysomething customer who wants to mix sophisticated with edgy, who wants classy pieces with a kick,” said salesperson Claire Buser.

Also hot is anything metallic or velvet by Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent, and cashmere sweaters by Calypso, Robert Rodriguez and Pringle.

Lilith, founded by designer Lily Barreth, began with headquarters in San Francisco in 1987 and moved to 1833 Fourth Street in 2003. The company now operates 10 stores and is carried in 450 specialty stores in 30 countries. Asian cuts and a slightly Belgian, avant-garde sensibility permeate the line.

“The clothes are whimsical and appeal to all ages,” said store assistant manager Sharon Haag. “It’s also investment dressing; Lily’s color palette matches in every season.”

Hot items include a tulip-shaped plaid skirt with tulle lining, and a long-sleeved pullover in wool felt and fishnet that can be layered with a skirt or jumper. Also checking are tweed suits—“kind of Chanel with an edge,” Haag said—and a metallic nylon shrug with halfattached sleeves. Lilith offers two collections per year. Fabrics are from Paris, and all sweaters are hand-knit.

Headquartered in San Francisco, Margaret O’Leary operates seven stores, including one at 1832 Fourth Street (and one at Montana Avenue in Santa Monica, Calif.). The line is known for its cashmere sweaters that showcase subtle Celtic designs and playful graphics.

The store also carries 50 other vendors. Especially popular are shoes and boots by Sigerson Morrison, handbags by Kooba, and hats and scarves by Meg Cohen.

Berkeley-based designer Erica Tanov has operated a store at 1827 Fourth Street for five years, selling clothing that appeals primarily to a customer in her 30s and 40s. “The pieces are really simple and slightly vintage-inspired, but the fabrics are what make them really beautiful,” said assistant manager Emily Sontag.

That describes Tanov’s cashmere herringbone and painted-wool looks for Winter. For Spring, the designer uses many original textiles from India.

Lingerie-inspired dresses in chiffon and silk charmeuse are currently selling well.

The boutique also features other labels, including denim line Rogan, which the store can barely keep in stock. Beaded dresses by Australia’s Meghan Park are also top sellers, as are handbags by Kale and Ute Neumann.