L.A. Fashion Week Fall ’05: Coco Kliks

Los Angeles designer Coco Kliks created an elaborate back story of love and salvation in a Gothic circus setting for her Fall 2005 collection, which she showed March 17 at trendy nightclub Bliss in West Hollywood.

The moody story set the tone for the collection, which included a palette of black, pink and mauve. Only slip dresses in a heart-print chiffon veered from the nostalgic mood.

The intimate setting and tiny runway highlighted the collection’s many delicate details, from an arch of covered buttons on the bust line of a dress to the contrast-colored button tabs on skirts and trousers to the tuxedo pleats on the yoke of a satin wrap blouse.

The designer topped satin pants with a belted tunic over a turtleneck sweater and paired her appliqueacute;d T-shirts and embroidered sweaters with cotton gauchos and velvet skirts and pants. Among the best pieces were her “Cypher” corset top in jersey and her “Fugitive” swing coat in lavender herringbone.

Several pieces, including a cropped velvet jacket with ribbon and button detailing on the bodice, indicated a distinct period in history. Kliks said she was mindful to layer and mix those pieces to give them more of a streetwear look.

“I tend to isolate myself with my complicated storylines,” she said. Nonetheless, Kliks’ collection alluded to several current fashion trends, including demure Victorian silhouettes and menswear details and fabrics.

“It’s a magical synchronicity that exists in fashion,” Kliks said. “As a designer, part of my responsibility is to tune into that frequency.” —Alison A. Nieder