L.A. Fashion Week Spring '06: Juuml;nker Designs

No one would dare call Juuml;nker Designs mainstream.

Yet Tod Waters, the co-designer of the Los Angeles–based leather house that favors a punk and goth look, confirmed that as a new direction for the company.

“Our main focus is making more everyday clothes,” said the dreadlocked designer who designs the line with Giuliana Mayo. Still, Waters and Mayo design the line to suit the tastes of their rock-star customers—including Aerosmith frontman Steven Tyler Juuml;nker’s Spring 2006 collection, which debuted Oct. 20 at Soul Folks art gallery and performance space in downtown Los Angeles’ warehouse district, shifted gears from the leather-dominated looks of the past to more denim and military styles. Jeans and army-inspired fashion have been part of Juuml;nker’s design palette for its three-year history. Although these looks are currently the rage on the runways of Los Angeles and Europe, Juuml;nker gave the look its own stamp.

Juuml;nker jeans featured a well-worn look with giant zippers and camouflage details. Military looks included a fitted minidress made out of vintage U.S. Army fatigues. Leather looks were inspired by the classic biker style of the 1960s. Yet there was room for experimenting. The 2006 collection also featured a flowing kimono-style gown and a tulle dress with a snakeskin corset. —Andrew Asch