California Apparel News

The April 24–26 edition of the Los Angeles International Textile Show at the California Market Center added international pavilions and garnered mixed reviews.

New this year was the Korean pavilion and a union of French and Italian exhibitors to create the high-end European pavilion.

CMC officials said the show’s exhibitor list grew 16 per-cent and attendance increased 7 percent. The exhibitor increase is due in part to the Korean participation as well as strong exhibitor retention.

“It looks like a very good start,” said Hal Kaltman, owner of Hal Kaltman Textiles and president of the Textile Association of Los Angeles. “People are here to shop.”

Korea draws closer

The Korean pavilion, presented by Kotra, a Los Angeles–based Korean trade investment promotion agency, marks the first time Korean textile manufacturers have entered the local apparel industry en masse.

In Ho Sohn, Kotra’s manager, said the Korean textile industry and the Los Angeles textile industry are very similar.

The Korean industry is moving away from producing mass quantities to offering more contemporary and high-end textiles— something that appeals to Los Angeles’ designers, he said.

Exhibitors at the Korean pavilion, held in the exhibit hall of the CMC’s C-wing, offered a variety of goods—ranging from upholstery, denim and trims to technology and eco-friendly fabrics. Specialty goods included antibacterial fabrics woven with metal or infused with charcoal and protective fabric for use in medical or industrial settings.

Buyer interest seemed strong, Sohn said. On the second day of the show, Kotra estimated 400 buyers visited the pavilion’s 37 exhibitors. Sohn said he expected to see as many as 1,000 people walk the aisles.

Dannie Lee, president of AB Industries, a Seoul-based cotton and performance fabric manufacturer, said he didn’t expect to do much business at the show but was glad for the opportunity to educate local buyers.

Exhibitors said buyers appeared to be open to buying Korean textiles direct from the manufacturer. Eliminating the middleman meant Korean manufacturers could offer more competitive pricing, Sohn said.

European union

After years of operating separately, the French Espace Textile pavilion and the Italian Tex Italia pavilion joined forces to create the European pavilion in the CMC’s Fashion Theater.

Agnes Elisabelar, Espace Textile’s export manager, said she was delighted with the development. The French pavilion previously was housed on the 13th floor with the bulk of the textile show’s exhibitors.

“This is definitely the best location for us,” she said. “We have been wanting to be here for years.”

Giovanni Mafobda, Tex Italia’s deputy trade commissioner, said he welcomed the proximity of the French exhibitors.

“It’s good for the American customer to focus the French with the Italian,” he said. “That way, they can shop and compare more easily.”

Michael Touati, of France Textile Fabrication in Paris, said he returned to the show after being gone for several seasons.

“I’m happy with the show,” he said. “The second day was much better than the first. And the buyers are better.”

The intimate ambiance of the show is a big draw for the more upscale designers, Touati said. “It adds to our credibility.”

Among the companies to walk the show were Bebe, Juicy Couture, Karen Kane, Kellwood Group, Disney, Nordstrom, Elsie Katz, and designers Kevan Hall, Jennifer Nicholson, Monique Lhuillier and Nony Tochterman of Petro Zillia.

While the bulk of the exhibitors in the European pavilion offered high-end textiles, Elisabelar said more moderately priced contemporary fabrics were also available.

“We’re a very good resource for a variety of textiles,” she said.

Inspiration and confusion

A new format greeted seasoned buyers on the 13th floor of the CMC, the show’s primary location. Recent renovations on the penthouse meant more booths and dramatically reduced showroom space.

The new layout was meant to maximize the top floor’s views of downtown Los Angeles, enhance the natural lighting and provide better circulation through the aisles.

“We are constantly challenging ourselves to find new ways to enhance the show and improve the building to make the [show] fresh and exciting for everyone who participates,” said John Kim, the CMC’s general manager.

Exhibitor and attendee reaction to the new layout was mixed.

Julie Ward, president of Gallery Asha, a Los Angeles– based distributor of ethnic textiles, said she heard some complaints from buyers but was generally happy with her location.

Deborah Didier, of Placerville, Calif.–based Golden Thread Silks, said she was glad to be out of a showroom.

“I love the lighting, it makes the fabrics really stand out,” she said.

Hanna Niku, of Los Angeles–based Mond Tex International Lace and Fabric, a regular exhibitor, said she was unhappy with the new layout and her booth placement.

“It’s like a maze,” she said. “People have no idea where they are or which way to go. There’s no carpet, no direction. And the signs are too small.”

Niku estimated she saw a 30 to 40 percent drop in business at the show.

“It has affected my business,” she said.

Despite Niku’s consternation, Howard Bobis of New York–based Friday Fabrics said he got his fair share of business. His suggestion for next season: better signage.

Petro Zillia’s Tochterman said once she got the hang of the layout, inspiration was not far behind.

“I saw some amazing embroidery and lace,” she said. “I found myself gravitating toward darker prints and black and white graphics.”

French fabric line Solstiss saw buyers shopping for modern takes on traditional lace. Buyers lingered over laser-cut and neo-geometric styles. Pink, orange, blue and purple were the hot colors for Spring, said Laurence Jailler, Solstiss’ executive vice president. Innovative fabrics, like a soy/silk mix in tea-stained shades also drew interest.

“People are here looking for new, different and better. Price is not as important as new styles,” said Herb Stern, vice president of New York–based Stylecrest Fabrics Ltd.