Melrose Avenue's New Crowd

Art, celebrity and commerce can take some unique turns on the west end of Los Angeles’ Melrose Avenue. During the second week of November, a crew of laborers put up an art installation made of tree branches on the faccedil;ade of the Max Azria boutique.

At the other end of the street, international fashion brand Carolina Herrera held a splashy celebrity soiree. The label celebrated the opening of its flagship boutique on Melrose Place, a street just off Melrose’s main drag by La Cienega Boulevard.

The mix of edgy art and celebrity seemingly only could happen on streets like Melrose. But it’s a change from the past, according Jaga Buyan, owner of Thesis Man/Woman.

“This street just used to be furniture boutiques,” Buyan said. “I think it’s the new Rodeo Drive, but it’s edgier.”

But the street is getting crowded. Boutiques such as Fred Segal Ron Herman at Melrose had planted a standard for fashion at Melrose in the 1960s. But in the past couple of years it became a fashion street, with new stores owned by iconic designers such as Diane von Furstenberg, Paul Smith and Marc Jacobs and branded stores for Adidas, Original Penguin and Antik Denim.

Neely Shearer, a Melrose Avenue veteran retailer, said the new crowd of boutiques actually makes life easier for multiline boutiques on Melrose Avenue. “People come here for the Adidas store, and they’ll stumble onto the other boutiques,” said Shearer, who has co-owned Xin with Gordon Morikawa since 2000.

However, the people who shop Melrose always want fashions off the proverbial beaten path, according to Buyan. “People don’t want to shop for fashions that are already in the magazines. They want something that is individual,” she said.

Thesis specializes in new designers. Popular items include a tuxedo shirt with a raw edge from Camicia Mea, which retails for $333. Also popular is the reversible dress produced by Los Angeles–based label Burning Torch by Karyn Craven. It retails for $425.

Xin also specializes in new fashions. Topselling items include a jumpsuit made by Issho, the label that Shearer designs. The inspiration for the jumpsuit comes from workwear. But the tailored silhouette makes it fashion, Shearer said. It retails for $235. Other popular labels at Xin include TseSay and Diane Samadi.

The numbers of tourists are increasing among the customers walking Melrose Avenue, according to a representative for Jeffrey Gold, co-owner of boutique Upstairs no. 8111. And when tourists from Japan, Australia and western European countries visit Los Angeles, they often look for jeans.

Denim is the most popular item at Upstairs, and the most recent top sellers are the “Skinner” jean by Los Angeles–based Ranahan Jeans, which features a lipstick pocket on one pant-leg ankle. It retails for $179. Another hot new line is B United by Frankie B. The line’s “Fillmore Freedom Wash” retails for $198. Other big sellers are men’s shirts by Los Angeles– based Aqua VI. They retail for $95.

Dresses are some of the best sellers at Melrose Avenue boutique Creatures of Comfort. Owner Jade Lai said dresses from New York designer Rachel Comey have been popular, with price points ranging from $300 to $500. Dresses by Los Angeles designer brand Crispin & Basilio have also been snapped up at retail prices spanning $200 to $300. Lai said one of the secrets to these labels’ success is scarcity. “They are hard to find,” Lai said. “Not only in Los Angeles, but everywhere.”