Ungaro Relaunches in California

It’s the first time in 10 years that Emanuel Ungaro has been available in California. An elegant cocktail party and fashion show kicked off the relaunch of the Parisian couturier at Neiman Marcus on March 27. Peter Dundas, the couturier’s new creative director, was on-hand to host the fashion show and greet guests, including starlets Kristen Bell, Michele Hicks and Marley Shelton—all dressed in Ungaro. Raquel Welch, Kelly Carlson and Dave Navarro were among those who toasted the new collection at the show and at the after-party, held at the Bar Marmont in Hollywood.

The company—which was purchased in fall 2005 by Silicon Valley, Calif.–based Internet tycoon and investment banker Asim Abdullah and his wife, Isha—has been on a path to relaunch the brand by focusing on building a strong product. The company restructured last year by hiring Dundas as the new creative director. Dundas most recently was the chief designer for men’s and women’s ready-to-wear at Roberto Cavalli. The company also named M.T. Moufarrige, the man who chose Stella McCartney for the relaunch of Chloe, as the new president and chief executive officer.

Beverly Hills was the first stop in a series of events held by Neiman Marcus to relaunch the line in the United States. “We thought it [Beverly Hills] was a great place to start because I think the Ungaro woman loves glamour. I would like the woman that wears Ungaro to feel like a star, and, so, what better place to start than Beverly Hills?” said Dundas. No stranger to glamour, Dundas also previously held positions at Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier. “It’s really a starting phase getting the brand out there, showing my vision for the house and for what we can do—and that’s something to come, as well.”

On the runway, Dundas gave a modern twist to Emanuel Ungaro’s couture legacy with his second collection. Feminine, airy silhouettes had a vibrant, colorful palette in shades of blue, violet, pink and green. The look was sexy and feminine, with flowing silk chiffon fabrics and a mix of prints. Ultra-short mini-dresses had lightly draped ruched details, and glamorous gowns were sexy with high side slits. A black sequin mini-dress (perfect for any Hollywood “It” girl) was decorated with a colorful dragonfly design and a sexy low-cut back. Sharp tailored ensembles in neutral tones had a casual but smart look with lace-up details up the back of pant legs and ruffled collars. More-classic styles included polka- dot and paillette-covered shifts.

The colorful, airy designs were perfect for the California market, from which Ungaro is also taking some of its design cues. Moufarrige said he has noticed a shift in consumer behavior and what makes a status symbol today. The focus is on a younger market, where not only do older consumers want to look younger, but young consumers are coming of age with increased buying power. He hopes to cash in. “The trick is to find what makes our consumer tick,” said Moufarrige. Los Angeles, he said, “is the quintessential place in the world where people look younger and act younger. People from around the world are taking cues from California— and especially L.A.”

Abdullah expects the partnership with Neiman Marcus to help in developing product for this market. As a boutique luxury brand with wholesale sales at 90 million euros, Abdullah doesn’t see Ungaro becoming an extremely large company and prefers to keep its exclusive luxury cachet. “We have to get the positioning of the women’s line just right,” said Abdullah. “I think that growth, if it will come, will be in adjacent areas.” After women’s apparel, the focus will be on accessories and a men’s luxury collection, which is slated to launch in July. “Hopefully, this is the first, right step forward,” he said.

The event in Beverly Hills was followed by a well-received launch and celebration in San Francisco on March 29. Houston is scheduled for April. Tom Lind, senior vice president, director of stores for Neiman Marcus, said, “The Ungaro brand has been a brand that over the years has been very important for Neiman Marcus, and we’re excited to see it being relaunched and be a part of it.”

N. Jayne Seward