California Couture

L.A. Designers Use Personal Touch to Inspire Sales

Fashion shows and the glamorous madhouse images they conjure up are great for building buzz. But some Los Angeles–based couture designers are turning the idea of the fashion show on its head to showcase their designs better and close sales.

On a sunny afternoon in December, a dozen well-to-do women gathered in designer Lloyd Klein’s couture atelier in Los Angeles for an intimate fashion show. Guests sipped champagne and nibbled fancy cookies while models strutted down a small catwalk in couture evening gowns, Klein’s “best of” and red-carpet favorites, and a new collection of sexy knitwear.

Klein, who greeted his guests after the show and discussed the finer points of his gowns, said these tiny gatherings have become indispensable to his business. “We got the idea to do monthly fashion shows in-house, and now they have become part of our protocol. They are such a success,” Klein said.

Launched in October in collaboration with the Costume Council of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the intimate setting was well-received, and Klein continued to produce shows on his own in his atelier on Beverly Boulevard.

Inspired by the 1939 Joan Crawford high-society film “The Women” and the in-store shows held in Parisian couture houses, Klein’s fashion shows bring a welcome dose of glamour and decorum, Klein said. “This way, we have a whole afternoon. We can talk about the clothes; they can see them on a body and see the construction. [Traditional] fashion shows are more for press and buyers. These shows allow me to focus on my customers and listen to what they like. As a couture designer, I like to work closely with my customers,” he said. And, since his designs are not determined by the season but rather by the needs of his customers, the monthly shows make more sense for him than seasonal catwalk extravaganzas.

Populating the shows was a no-brainer, Klein said. “For the first shows, we invited our regular clients. Then, they began to bring their friends and daughters. It makes for a very nice atmosphere,” he said. Now, the shows’ popularity has grown so much that the designer has added a second show to accommodate the demand. “We have a very small afternoon show of about a dozen women. Then, in the evening, we have a larger show of about 50 or 60 women. It is more casual [than the afternoon show], but it is a lot of fun,” he said.

The proof of the show’s allure is in Klein’s rising sales figures. “We have been very successful. Many of our customers buy right after the show. Some return for a private fitting of their own. It is a very nice way to shop. My clients are very high-profile ladies and couture lovers. They appreciate the added attention and discretion,” he said. Several of his clients left cheat sheets with the designer so he could help their husbands shop for them. “The husband of one of my clients was just in. He is [a French diplomat], and his wife sent him here to buy her a Christmas present,” he laughed. “She will be very pleased.”

Still, couture doesn’t dominate Klein’s in-store catwalk. A new knit collection, which he debuted during his December shows, has been very well received. “Women can buy it right after the show— instant gratification!” Klein said, adding that the new ready-to-wear knit collection is helping to drive sales and expand his client base. “It is more affordable and very versatile. Very young and hip,” he said. Sexy and body-conscious, the knits have become a hit with the younger crowd. “It is the sort of thing young women can wear to parties or clubs,” Klein said. Retail prices for the knits line fall well below the price of Klein’s couture gowns. Sweater dresses, miniskirts, jackets and tops retail for $200 to upwards of $600.

Eveningwear designer Kevan Hall, who is a regular during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, Calif., will produce similar events when his new couture studio is completed next year. The new studio is located on Beverly Boulevard in Los Angeles—down the street from his current location. “It is a targeted focus, very different from the Fashion Week shows. They allow me to cater to my clients, the ones buying my gowns,” he said. For his couture shows, Hall said he will invite select clients for luncheons or tea. Beyond building a personal rapport and inspiring women to buy his creations, these gatherings of his most influential clients will give him insight into their needs and tastes. “It gives women an opportunity to work closely with the designer, and they love that. And, as a designer, I am able to focus and listen and see what they are responding to,” Hall said.

Currently in the process of building his studio, Hall is working with his designers to create a space that can accommodate the intimate gatherings. “It is going to be beautiful.”