Bishop
Self-taught designer Anna Barthelme is the creative force behind the new Los Angeles–based luxury knitwear brand Bishop. The line, which debuted for Fall 2007 at the Designers and Agents show in New York, is a well-edited assortment of cashmere that runs the gamut from chunky Fair Isle sweaters to body-skimming sweater dresses and stylish cardigans. The silhouettes are edgy and modern with slight hints of deconstruction and, in some cases, a boyish vibe. Barthelme described the collection as “Holly Golightly meets Annie Hall” and said it’s very much a representation of her multi-dimensional style persona.
A former actress, Barthelme learned how to knit as a child in Copenhagen, Denmark. Her design inspirations are an amalgamation of her personal experiences (childhood adventures in New York’s West Village and an off-Broadway acting career) and her incredibly creative family influences (her father, Donald Barthelme, is a world-renowned writer). She also cites architecture, particularly Frank Lloyd Wright and Frank Gehry, and classic films by Billy Wilder and Alfred Hitchcock as additional influences in her line.
Subtle details make this line unique, and the many different inspirations for each piece meld beautifully to create interesting silhouettes. Highlights in the line include “Scout,” a blousonsleeved scoopneck dress; “Mel,” a two-tone oversized grandpa cardigan with wooden buttons; “Scottie,” a hooded wrap sweater that can easily be worn as a coat; the sexy “Pauli” dress; cozy oversized sweaters “Kelsey,” “Pru” and “Georgy Too;” and the simple yet stunning “Vic” tunic/dress with pockets. A neutral palette of black, charcoal, chocolate and nude is punctuated with jewel tones of red, teal, rose, olive and eggplant.
The line is made from three- to 14-gauge cashmere from the Inner Mongolian region, which is highly regarded for its fine quality and environmentally conscious practices. Barthelme chose novelty stitches that vary from Fair Isle to bubble stitch, as well as the traditional ribbed and reverse jersey. She said that Bishop is for a specific woman who knows what she wants and doesn’t mind standing out: “It’s luxurious, colorful hellip; something you want to just dive into.”
Los Angeles boutiques Madison and Diavolina; Dress in Santa Barbara, Calif.; and P45 in Chicago are stocking the line. Wholesale price points range from $135 to $450. For information, call the Noetic Showroom at (213) 614-7924. —Dena Smolek
