L.A. Fashion Week Fall '07: Gen Art

Gen Art’s “New Garde” fashion show focused on a more worldly group of talent for its latest outing, held March 16 at the Ivar Studio in Hollywood.

The nonprofit group highlighted Los Angeles–based collections from French-born designer Isabelle Carter of Alms, Indian-born designers Mintee and Satya Kalra of Mintee, and Gen Art alum Ali Blakley of The Hazel Brown Collection.

Taking advantage of the Ivar’s cavernous studios, the designers staged their shows simultaneously on separate sets throughout the two-hour event.

Carter was a stylist for more than a decade before turning to clothing design. For Fall, she is employing clean lines with sensible yet directional appeal featuring smart suits, dress, tunics and tops drawing inspiration from the feminine silhouette and the military details of 1940s wartime France. She also was inspired by the detailed work of the Miao people of Guizhou, China, who employ quilting, double-needle stitching and apron-like layering of fabrics.

Selections featured striped coats and jackets and cashmere and wool sweaters in cool color ways including eggplant, cream, silver, pewter and navy. Carter used wool, cotton, Lurex for coats and jackets, and sandwashed silk, silk chiffon and Satinella for dresses, tops and tunics.

Mintee Kalra, originally from India, featured a set of delicate yet highly detailed mix of quilted jackets, gauze and silk tunics, halter gowns and dresses. The London-trained designer has worked with Alexander McQueen before launching Mintee two years ago as a mission to enhance the holistic lifestyle through clothing and jewelry.

The designer’s Fall collection features willowy feminine pieces that were appropriate for the boudoir set on which it was presented. Highlighted were a “razzle dazzle” coat detailed with clusters of rosettes, ruffled party dresses, silk layered and backless dresses, and silk crepe dresses with wavy fringe. The color palette featuring champagne and floral reds are spring-like.

Designer Ali Blankley of The Hazel Brown Collection returned to Gen Art after being featured in the group’s Fresh Faces of Fashion presentation in 2005. Known for her detailed handwork and hand-dyed garments, Blankley continued in that vein, featuring cotton, wool, cashmere and silk dresses and tops with a dark color palette consisting of shades of grays, blacks and browns.

The designer took a slightly more refined approach from previous collections featuring a few more tailored pieces as well as some pleats. She integrated leather straps and steel-nail buttons onto several pieces to accent her workmanship theme.

The Gen Art stage also allowed Blankley to present her Fall collection on a set featuring a Shaker-era home, where women worked together sewing, writing, washing and other work. —Robert McAllister