A Weak Economy Fuels Buyer Demands at Project New York

For its July 21–23 run, the Project Global Trade Show, owned by Advanstar Communications, returned to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in midtown Manhattan.

Initially launched in 2003 in New York with fewer than 50 brands, the show has grown to become a biannual and bicoastal show with editions in New York and Las Vegas that continue to attract high-end buyers and major industry players.

Last season, the show moved to the top floors of 7 World Trade Center, which boasted impressive views. But the tri-level setup left exhibitors frustrated because many buyers were not walking up the stairs to visit all of the booths.

This season, many said they missed the sweeping skyline view, but most brand representatives and retailers welcomed the single-floor layout. Additionally, the new location was only a short distance from ENK International’s Blue trade show, which ran concurrently at Pier 92. Capsule, an independent menswear show that ran from July 21 to 22, was held at the Angel Orensanz Foundation, located in Manhattan’s Lower East Side. (Capsule was off the beaten path from Project and Blue, but most exhibitors at Project agreed that Capsule targeted a different clientele than the other two shows.)

Several hundred brands participated in this season’s run of Project. Some notable last-minute exhibitors included AJ Heelstone, Bertigo, Buffalo, Don’t Thread Me, Jed, Muze, Mondo, One Life, Pan Am, Rebel Roots, Pepe, Rock Revival, Studio Clinton, Triple 5 Soul, Vintage Wear and Worn Free.

What’s next in denim

AG Adriano Goldschmeid celebrated its fifth year with Project in New York. East Coast Sales Representative Dwight Bodycott said the booth was often double-booked with a heavy stream of traffic. “AG is known for great basics, and we will always carry our tried-and-true denim. But we are really excited about our new lines that manipulate our best fits to replicate aged denim. Our customers want the look and feel of aged denim with the strength of a new jean,” he said. The company introduced several new details and techniques at the show, including more fashion and engineered fits, organic dyes, paint-splattered artist jeans, and patchwork styles. Bodycott said he originally worried that the New York market might become oversaturated with competing shows, but he said AG had not lost any business so far to Blue or Capsule.

David Appel, owner and designer of Los Angeles–based Cohesive, was a newcomer who exhibited his line for the first time at Project. He said he stopped by the other shows but felt that Project was the strongest. “I saw some interesting things, but the atmosphere here is a little different. I just think buyers are more serious about writing business at this show,” Appel said. Every pair of Cohesive jeans featured surprising details such as antique buttons or vibrant prints sewn on the inside of the garment. “The looks combine preppy and edgy, and there is absolutely no middle ground,” Appel said. “Everything is either heavily distressed or super-clean. Buyers are really responding to this deliberate design style.”

Going for quality

Launched in Japan in 2002, 8010 Gekko participated in Project for the third season. The brand name means “light of the moon” in Japanese, according to 8010 Gekko President and Designer Yuji Hasegawa.

“The goal is to create synergy between traditional Japanese elements and Western culture,” Hasegawa said. Rock ’n’ roll–inspired accessories with a line of high-style clutches portrayed a glamorous theme that was further showcased with platinum-, gold- and silver-infused denim. Pocket treatments were embellished with Japanese script and Swarovski crystals, while jewelry boxes containing small LED screens played animations drawn by Hasegawa. Despite the impressive display of creativity, Hasegawa said traffic at his booth was a little slow due to the sluggish economy.

This was the second season at Project for Hawke & Co., and the company brought plenty to show. The New York–based brand launched a new golf line and showed the Summer/Spring 2009 collection, as well as a year-round outerwear collection. The return to the Javits Center was met with approval from Hawke National Sales Manager Jonathan Radcliffe, although he said traffic was sporadic at the booth. Still, Radcliffe said, the label connected with important accounts at the show. “Right now, I think buyers are being extremely particular about writing orders,” he said. “A weak economy, coupled with an influx of expanding brands, is benefiting the end consumer. Competition is forcing brands to produce higher-quality products at better prices.”

Project is next slated for Aug. 26–28 at the Sands Expo and Convention Center in Las Vegas.