Orthodox: Androgynous, Minimalist, Chic
Since launching Orthodox as a contemporary men’s sportswear line in 2005, Eric Niccoli has fielded requests from retailers for a women’s line with a similar aesthetic. Understated with plenty of hidden details, Orthodox’s men’s line sells at specialty retailers such as American Rag and Alpha in Los Angeles and Harlow and The Closet in Orange County, Calif. “They said there is a void in the market for women’s pieces that are less feminine, less flowy,” Niccoli said.
Now, for Spring 2008, Niccoli has launched Orthodox’s first women’s collection. Androgynous and minimalist, the collection takes heavy inspiration from Orthodox’s men’s offerings. “We take existing details and pieces from the men’s [line] and make them relevant to women,” Niccoli said. That means fitted motorcycle jackets, tiny Members Only–style windbreakers, cashmere sweaters, slim trousers, and T-shirts shrunk and tailored to fit women’s curves. Vests, Henley tops, tunics, dresses, blouses, pleated skirts and jeans round out the collection, which sticks to a somber palette of gray, black, white, navy and chocolate.
“The design is very clean, but there is a big focus on details and fabric,” Niccoli explained. One pair of jeans features a super-skinny fit and exposed zippers running up the back of each leg, ending at the back pocket. A rayon tunic features an asymmetrical hem and an adjustable drop waist. Orthodox sources all its fabrics in Italy and produces the line in Los Angeles and overseas.
The women’s line, which debuted in August at the Project Global Trade Show in Las Vegas, has enjoyed a warm reception from buyers, Niccoli said. “The reaction has been pretty positive, especially considering this is our first season. A lot of existing accounts have supported our initial launch and taken a chance on us,” Niccoli said. Wholesale prices for Orthodox, which sells at the Derelicte Showroom at the Cooper Design Space, range from $22 to $24 for tanks and T-shirts, from $100 to $216 for jackets, and from $84 to $132 for shorts and pants.
For Fall 2008, Niccoli hints at more categories and deeper offerings. Buyers will see wool coats, shrunken school-boy blazers, more dresses in better fabrications and hits of rich color. For more information, call (213) 627-2087. —Erin Barajas
