California Apparel News

PALM DESERT, CALIF.—The first fashion show I attended was FIDM’s Debut 2009—a reprise of the design college’s annual graduation show. As a FIDM alum, I had the opportunity to view the designers’ collections once before at the school’s museum in Los Angeles. Now, I saw their collection pieces in motion.

Highlights included:

Johnathan Webster’s Metro-Victorian Power Women. The pieces carried an undertone of the famous Yves Saint Laurent power suits. The piece du jour was a pair of white slim pants with intricate pleating on knees and zipper details.

Adrian Manuel showed a sophisticated color story with delightfully clever usage of coin-purse closers as pocket details. If Marni had a baby by Marc Jacobs, Mr. Manuel gave us a sneak peek at the offspring: a mixture of unapologetic bold patterns and fabrics with a touch of retro-nouveau.

Lacey Osberg has the talent, technique and color manipulation of a luxury brand in the making. Her collection pieces could have been hung on hangers and taken to the Saks Fifth Avenue next door. Her aesthetic had a little Nina Ricci with a little Armani. The audience loved every piece that came down the runway.

Charles Ryan Sands. Mr. Sands demonstrated multi-craftsmanship skills by also designing accessories to complete his men’s and women’s looks. He gave us great ready-to-wear but also political points of view through the use of original gas masks prints a la Comme Des Garcons. Politico Chic.

Sara Lighthall taught me a lesson. She re-enforced the importance in not judging a book by its cover. When I previously viewed her collection in Los Angeles, I said: “This is so not L.A.” But on the runway, her pieces morphed into a soft palette of must-haves with mature sophistication. She studied her target market and designed for it. Los Angeles–based couturier Lloyd Klein told me Sara’s collection was one of his favorites.

Clay Sadler was the crowd’s favorite. He gave us crashing cascades of tulle, drama and fairy-tale dresses. His gowns aren’t for the girls who think less is best. Case in point: The strapless black-and-white gown that must have used at least 20 yards of fabric! Mr. Sadler seemed to also give what every woman in the tent wanted, a much-needed escape from the boring. The audience responded in a standing ovation.

160;*Two Designers that need honorable mention: Mike Cheng and Valentina Vardanyan. I would like to congratulate them for being true to their artistic vision and teaching the audience about avant-garde fashion.


Jonathan Webster


Adrian Manuel


Lacey Osberg


Sara Lighthall


Clay Sadler


Mike Cheng


Valentina Vardanyan