Robert Gray, St. John Co-Founder

Robert Gray, one of the legendary icons of the Southern California fashion industry, died Feb. 28 at his home in Orange County, Calif., after a long illness. He was 86.

Gray, with his wife, Marie Gray, a well-known designer, started up the fashion house St. John Knits in 1962. It is headquartered in Irvine, Calif., and today employs more than 2,500 people.

Over the years, the brand evolved from a small family-run operation to a global luxury brand known for its innovative knitwear that is stylish, well made, travels well and looks good on just about any woman.

Most of the company’s apparel is manufactured in Orange County, using sophisticated machinery and well-trained apparel makers who turn out knit suits, dresses, tops and pants that are sold in stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and the company’s 27 boutiques.

Associates remember Gray as hard working and loyal. “One of the things he and Marie did was fill thousands of closets of professional women and give them a wardrobe they could build upon and feel beautiful in,” said Bruce Fetter, who worked for St. John for 13 years as president and chief operating officer before recently joining James Perse as chief operating officer. “Bob was a fair man to work for. He was somebody who gave you plenty of freedom to do things but would hold you accountable for the results.”

Fetter also noted the company provided jobs for thousands of people around Southern California. “At the end of the day, there were literally thousands of families that counted on that business. The company created healthy lifestyles driven by their success,” he said.

Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion Association, a trade group for apparel makers and related businesses, remembered Gray as a debonair, charming and handsome man who was kind to everyone. “He was very caring about his company and his staff. He was loyal to a fault,” she said. “I don’t know anyone who would say anything negative about him. … His business is basically a one-of-a-kind business, and no one has been able to copy that.”

In 1999, the Grays sold a majority share of the company to Vestar Capital Partners for $520 million but kept a minority stake in the label.

Robert Gray was chief executive and chairman of St. John until 2002, when he turned the company over to his daughter, Kelly Gray, and Fetter.

The company, whose revenues in 2010 were estimated at $325 million, is now run by Glenn McMahon, chief executive officer. “Bob’s legacy lives on to this day,” McMahon said. “Bob, Marie and Kelly built an iconic American brand that is regarded today as one of the pillars of the industry.”

Gray is survived by his wife, Marie, and his daughter, Kelly.—Deborah Belgum