... about what people will be wearing in spring ’23 during L.A. Market at the California Market Center Oct. 8–12. Matthew Mathiasen, senior manager of events for the CMC, said, “We welcomed buyers along with co-sponsor Brand Assembly to a rooftop presentation by Doneger/Tobe on Oct. 11. Buyers engaged in the fabulous rooftop lounge and later enjoyed the onsite amenities provided such as complimentary coffee and lunch stations and multiple happy hours. We look forward to continuing with these perks for 2023.”

Providing answers to the question of who will be wearing what were Shelda Hartwell and Rachael Robbins Kachko of Doneger. Following a presentation of the big ideas of the season, Hartwell, vice president and creative director for the West Coast, summed up where fashion was headed. “It’s all about tracking the mindset of the consumer rather than just following seasonal trends.”

What is uppermost in minds and lives today includes overwhelming environmental concerns and a need for fair practices. Doneger spoke to a new movement in “farm to closet” apparel, in recycling, reworking and reinventing.

The use of vegan materials was showcased at Vegan Fashion Week, wherebrands including Nikki Green previewed their lines. The newly launched kinder, gentler, pure red-carpet luxury line is made by hand in Los Angeles. Back Bone Society showed a new brand of sustainable L.A.-made contemporary intimate apparel that celebrates women as the backbone of society.

People continue to look back to decades from the 1960s through the 2000s in a reinvention of the past. Doneger coined it “era fluid.” Bespoke crafts have the feel that Grandma made it. Creative crochets, patchwork fabrics, groovy prints, denim and peasant dressing—“gypset,” a term used by journalist Julia Chaplin, defines this style as Gypsy Meets Jet Set. In this mode, IPNG, designed in Turkey, is a free-spirited collection of wearable art patchwork pieces. Showroom owner Sandra Loulakis said, “Stores always come back for the next group.” Eve Faucett, owner of Un Bacio Boutique, is just one of her retail customers who said the line does incredibly well for them.

Daniali does its version of boho 4.0 in its exclusive prints inspired by vintage Dolce & Gabbana, all made in L.A. and customizable. Prices range from $18 to $48. Philippe Brenot, senior director of retail lifestyle for Hyatt hotels, said, “Daniali is perfect for our clientele. A lot of our guests travel and want versatile things that go from beach to dinner in style.”

This rekindled throwback style has brought about a denim boom. Brands such as A.Z.I. are doing elaborate jeans and jackets that rock. Showing in the Sharon Koshet Sales showroom was its stretch mid-rise jeans “designed for real women that want both high style and great fit.” Jeans are priced at $49–$84 and jackets from $59 to $89.