Finishing Company Is on Call for Fashion Emergencies

It’s no different than any ER across the country. In fact, the daily chain of events at Santa Fe Finishing is almost identical. First, a frantic call requesting immediate assistance is received; then the patient is rushed into surgery; and finally, the patient, who is now fixed, is released.

The only difference at this Los Angeles-based plant is that the patients are usually huge lots of clothing from some of the largest names in apparel; most arrive from overseas factories with some production defect and a ship date of yesterday.

Manufacturers opt to send their garments to companies like Santa Fe Finishing when there is no time to send the garments back to their overseas factories or to their local production facilities.

Santa Fe Finishing does everything from changing the wrong-color buttons and trimming garments to pressing and adding flasher tags.

And Services such as those provided by Santa Fe Finishing are becoming more important because more apparel production is being taken overseas, according to co-owner Barry Forman.

“I describe our business as an emergency room because we fix things when there is little time available—and you can also schedule us to do the things you don’t want to do in-house,” said Forman. In fact, some of the biggest manufacturing names in local apparel (Guess? Inc. is one) are just a speed-dial number away.

Forman said he got the idea to buy the 16-year-old company (which he co-owns with partner Robin Dunstan) when he was manufacturing a private missy/sportswear label, Deborah Barry; he said the company faced similar last-minute situations, but at the time his options were limited.

Forman had a private label order for thousands of garments, but the retailer folded right before the apparel was scheduled to ship. Rather than trash the garments, he sought a company with services similar to Santa Fe’s and had them change the labels for 25 cents per garment, making it possible to re-sell the garments to other retailers. Problem solved.

“There used to be no reason for this sort of thing because we all used to have our own factories in the city,” Forman explained. “These garments were made in the U.A.E. [United Arab Emirates] with a sewing defect. Now, you’re not going to send these back all the way to the U.A.E. to get repaired because there’s no time.”

Working under quick turn-around times—up to a couple thousand garments each day—is something the former manufacturer relies on to keep business moving.

“I’m an ex-manufacturer so I understand what manufacturers need,” said Forman. “I understand the time frame they work in, the problems they run into, the cost constraints they’re underhellip; I understand the quality they require. This has been my life since I was 24 years old.”

The company has between 80 and 110 employees and has recently added a second shift to handle the demand.

“The pace is very quick, [that’s] what we like about it,” added Dunstan, whose previous experience is in the healthcare industry.

“Everything is an emergency,” Forman said.

“It’s a non-stop business,” he continued. “I swear my business day begins before I even wake up, but I love it nonetheless.”

Santa Fe has approximately 21 sewing machines with operators working in one and a half to two shifts in the 30,000-square-foot facility. Four workers operate the six rivet machines full time. The 28 pressing stations are also manned full time.

There are also multi-task employees, whose duties include trimming, sizing, adding hang tags, bagging and washing denim. (Denim is particularly expensive overseas due to water shortages, Forman explained.) The only type of garment Santa Fe doesn’t repair is formalwear and other delicate apparel.

Santa Fe’s pristine facility has passed every compliance inspection and is completely Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) certified, Forman said.

Prices are set according to the amount of time it takes to complete each order. Prices are kept competitive, Forman said, because similar businesses are beginning to surface in the Los Angeles area. “But I do think we’re the best,” he added.

Guess, which has its garments washed and pressed at Santa Fe, and Jonathan Martin are among the company’s bigger clients.

“I’ve been working with this company since 1990 and they’re the best; they’re totally professional, they never make promises they can’t keep and I appreciate that,” said Alejandro Encervado, production manager for Los Angeles-based T-shirt manufacturer James Pearse. “I can’t tell you how many times they’ve gotten the companies I work for out of a jam. Companies like these are indispensable to us.”

Forman said after the garments are “fixed” they are returned to the manufacturer for shipment. If the manufacturer does not need the merchandise immediately, Santa Fe Finishing can store the items.

Santa Fe’s business has expanded to include manufacturers outside of the Los Angeles garment district. Dunstan said the company is “broadening its horizon” with new clients in Orange County, and potential business in Calabasas and Camarillo.

Santa Fe’s clientele has also expanded as a result of the apparel industry becoming more global, Forman said.

“I exist because the garment manufacturer is going to need me,” he said. “If factories were perfect, there would be no reason for this company to exist. [Fortunately], apparel is an imperfect business.”