Modish yet safe was the way fashion critics described John Varvatos’ self-named men’s label when it premiered in 1999. But Varvatos felt this description did not capture the entire spirit of his line. He said his label often takes chances but his risk is tempered with pragmatism.

“In women’s, there are almost no rules,” said Varvatos, wearing a T-shirt bearing the logo of proto-punk band Iggy and the Stooges. “Proportions can go from short to long to loose to tight; it can happen overnight. With men’s, it’s an evolution at best, never a revolution.”

Varvatos’ strategy of measured risk has paid off handsomely. In 2004, his retail division’s comparative-store sales rose 60 percent over the previous year, and his wholesale division’s revenue increased 40 percent, according to the designer.

Varvatos’ success also can be measured by the expansion of his retail division and label. He will open a boutique in Costa Mesa, Calif.–based South Coast Plaza during Labor Day weekend. He also plans to build a store in New York’s SoHo district in late 2005 and a Chicago store in 2006. His company already runs four stores in New York, Las Vegas, New Jersey and Los Angeles.

The Varvatos label introduced a women’s line last year and debuted fragrance and skin-care lines in 2005.

Philanthropy plays an important role, too, according to the designer. Varvatos and his fianceacute;e, Joyce Zylberberg, flew into Los Angeles on March 5 for the third annual fund-raiser for the Stuart House, the program of the Santa Monica, Calif.–based Rape Treatment Center that serves the needs of children who have been sexually abused. Some of Hollywood’s top actors and executives—including Jeffrey Katzenberg, Jerry Bruckheimer, Brian Grazer and Brett Ratner—participated in the event’s host committee. The fund-raiser, held at Varvatos’ Los Angeles store, featured performances by singer songwriter Jackson Browne, as well as up-andcoming rocker Jesse Malin. Varvatos’ Spring 2005 lines for men and women were on display, too.

The inspiration for both the men’s and women’s lines was the style of the early 1970s. For men, the designer offered wide-shaped men’s trousers. For women, the inspiration was supermodel Lauren Hutton’s look, which Varvatos described as sexy but with a masculine influence.

“It’s an inspiration,” Varvatos said of the 1970s. “I’m not the kind of person who gets locked into such a look that it becomes a costume.”

He said his step into the 1970s was another part of the label’s measured strategy of risk.

“We’re never going to be the edgiest of the edgy; it’s not just my world. But there’s always an edge to what we do,” Varvatos said. “We were pushing the boundaries of some of our classically based clothes for the guy who came in a few seasons ago. When he looks at Varvatos now, he sees a few things where he can take another step forward.” —Andrew Asch