Academy of Art University - Innovation Is Key

"Nicky" Hyo Sun An, MFA Fashion Design, photos: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz

Academy of Art University debuted the collections of recent graduates on the runway during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. Innovation is key for the San Francisco-based design school, which has been premiering graduate collections at New York Fashion Week since 2005.

The show is a key place to scout upcoming design talent, and with high-profile attendees such as Suzy Menkes and Patrick McDonald in the audience, it’s hard to argue the fact. This season’s presentation included six womenswear collections from the fashion technical, knitwear and textile design programs. Collections ranged from softly sophisticated suits with ruffled treatments by Marina Solomatnikova to dark Gothic-tinged layered knit and silk chiffon ensembles by Bethany Meuleners. Naomi Sutton’s collection of cotton and lace prairie-inspired dresses were quite intriguing and added a refreshing softness to a typically dark season.

Two of the most innovative designers included Hyo Sun (Nicky) An and Steven Oo. An’s collection featured amazing circular fringelike draping that created a fluid amorphous effect. And Oo’s collection of knitwear was full of texture and structured shapes created from utilizing a variety of hand and hand-machine knitting techniques. Sabah Mansoor Husain closed the show with a knitwear collection that drew from traditional craftwork methods such as felting fabrics, crochet, hand embroidery and Shibori. Jewel-shaped crystals added an unexpected sparkle to the designer’s craftwork emphasis.

To see the collections on the runway go to Academy of Art University’s website for a webcast of the show.

Steven Oo, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design

Naomi Sutton, MFA Fashion and Textile Design