Distinctions in Denim: Serfontaine

Some designers rely on catchy or unique logos to help boost brand recognition. Mik Serfontaine relies solely on personal style, which imbues every inch of his denim line for women called Serfontaine.

The Los Angeles-based designer calls his trademark dirty denim “Easy Rider,” a name inspired by 1960s attitude—the kind that spurred a generation of innovative styles. Serfontaine’s take is ultra-low-rise denim with an exposed zipper and ring ornament that helped catapult the designer to the front line of denim brands.

“The line is creative in the sense that it’s not glam rock; it’s a jean for all occasions,” Serfontaine said. “You can wear them out or just hanging out.”

When Serfontaine debuted last November it launched a style campaign at better retail stores in Southern California and soon caught the eyes of celebrity stylists.

Sales have been strong despite the absence of a prominent logo for the line, according to the designer. “The fit and the styling are the most important part of the pant...not the logo,” he said.

Customers mostly buy the denim because they love the construction of the pant and the fit, said buyer and store manager Kristina Perez, who keeps several pairs of “Easy Rider” dirty denim in stock at her Diamond Lane boutique in Huntington Beach, Calif.

“Usually you think that the sizing would be different depending on the types of fabric a brand uses, but that’s not the case with Serfontaine,” said Perez.

The South African designer produces his denim line with a team of pattern makers and sewers in a factory located in downtown Los Angeles. Serfontaine recently expanded his line to include other low-rise styles, among them “Barracuda,” a lace-up pant with teardrop pockets applied to the front and saddleback styling on the backside, and a stylish, fitted denim trench coat.For Spring, he translated his signature style into rigid denim fabric, which he calls “rigid with a twist.” It features slash pocket styling in basic cuts and will debut at the Fashion Coterie show in New York Oct. 29–31.

Other offerings include corduroy and twill pants. Colors vary in shades of berry, camel, navy and white.Deliveries for Spring begin Jan. 30, 2002.So far, the company is currently shipping an average of about 1,500 units each week, Serfontaine said.

Wholesale price points for a pair of “Easy Rider” denim start at $55. The line is available at Traffic, Blonde, Tracey Ross and Ron Herman/Fred Segal stores in Los Angeles; Diamond Lane in Huntington Beach; Patricia Field and Henri Bendel in New York; and Intermix and Frees in Japan. —Claudia Figueroa