California Apparel News

Appointments seemed to be the key to success at the Holiday/Resort ’02/03 market week in Los Angeles, according to several exhibitors who reported that while some buyers were hesitant to make scheduling commitments, those that did were placing brisk orders.

The California Market Center (CMC), home to the California Mart, does not release exact buyer attendance numbers, but according to Karen Mamont, director of public relations and marketing for the CMC, attendance at the market exceeded that of last August’s market by at least 3 percent.

“That percentage is an increase in the registered buyers,” explained Mamont. “Ten percent of our buyers don’t register, so that increase may be higher.”

Attending buyers included Boston Proper Catalogue from Florida; J Harris; Christensen’s from Utah; Cache from New York; Boogie’s from Colorado; Tracey Ross; Ultimo from Illinois; Brown, Thomas and Co. from Dublin, Ireland; and the Phoenician from Arizona.

Veronica Salmon of Los Angeles-based Worldwide Import/Export Inc., showing handmade Brazilian wraps, T-shirts and tank dresses as part of the Pacific Coast Travelers show on the center’s 13th floor, noted some of the keys to a successful market.

“With this market, you will only have success when you make appointments and do a lot of the preliminary footwork,” said Salmon. “It’s not a show where there is a lot of traffic, so I will have to follow up with them and visit their stores after the show.”

Indira Batra of Anaheim, Calif.-based Indira, who was showing soft dresses, sweaters, skirts and handbags to better stores and specialty stores as part of Pacific Coast Travelers, noted that buyers were hesitant to make appointments, with some deciding to wait and see her line in Las Vegas at the MAGIC International show later this month.

“We tried to make appointments, but the buyers didn’t want to, saying they would just drop in,” said Batra. “Most of them are going to Vegas, because this market is too close to MAGIC, but anybody who walks through our door always writes orders.”

Cost concerns kept retailer Stephanie Grani of Stephania Gallery of Fashion in San Juan Capistrano, Calif., from scheduling a trip to MAGIC, prompting her to instead focus her shopping on market week at the CMC.

“This is the closest market there is and I can’t afford to go to Las Vegas,” said Grani. “I went last year and had a good time, but this year, there’s not enough in business to send me there. I’m doing what I have to do here, because many of the same reps who will be there are here.”

Fifth-floor rep Ginny Wong, who was getting strong orders for Billy Blues man-tailored pants and Perry White tunics, estimated improved business over last year. But Wong said that while buyers who showed were dropping paper, they were also resisting higher price points.

“People that have been here are writing heavy, [but] they’re playing it safe,” said Wong. “Price points are an issue now even for the best store.”

Phara Petrie, sales manager for San Francisco-based leather line Teski, also saw high prices as a concern.

“Buyers are afraid to spend the money right now,” said Petrie. “They’re worried about the economy and are playing it conservatively.”

Colleen Hall of Changes Boutique in Tucson, Ariz., was avoiding financial risks but was combing through the variety of resources for her customers on the hunt for new items.

“I think the buyers want to usher the same things instead of taking risks,” she said. “I look for everything, but I think a lot of the creativity is gone. The prices seem to be higher and right now, economically, that’s not lucrative.”

Apparel resources showing in the CMC’s Fashion Theater as part of the Focus show of contemporary lines reported being prepared for sporadic traffic.

“We knew it was going to be slow,” said Noelle Beaugureau, designer for Spike!, a Los Angelesbased company with related separates including low-cut stretch-denim pants, twill jackets and tops. Beaugureau based her logic on the generally cautious attitudes from buyers.

Suzi Click Lewis, who was also showing at Focus and who designs and sells silk halters, scarves and shawls under the label Suzi Click, said the key has been to stock impulse items.

“If they see something they love, they’ll buy it,” she said. “I’m getting about half repeat business and half new customers here.”

Several fifth-floor showroom reps, including Jenny Han of Solo Paris, also reported sporadic traffic.

“It would be busy for a few hours, then slow,” said Han.

Retailer Teresa Meola of Kissara in Alberta, Canada, made appointments but was still shopping around for something new for Fall.

“I always come down here looking for new ideas,” she said.

Other buyers, including Grani, were placing orders for immediates, avoiding any focus on Spring.

“I’m looking for immediate deliveries for November selling, so I’m cutting it pretty close,” Grani said. “I’m not interested in Spring, because that’s a long way to go. I had to economize and cut the fat to keep afloat.”

Kendra Duck of Los Angeles-based contemporary label Kendra Duck, who was showing novelty tees and tanks in the Fashion Theater, likened buyers’ need for immediate delivery to the impulsebuy mentality being seen on retail selling floors.

That impulse buying is what manufacturers such as Los Angeles-based e.g.o. are banking on in the launching of new lines. Brad Boonshaft, national sales manager for e.g.o., who debuted the line of casualwear featuring velour hoodies and ribbed pants combos to steady business in the Fashion Theater, admitted certain risk in launching a line in the current business climate but found assurance in the line’s production and pricing.

“Our feeling is that if we could offer better quality and fabric along with understated sex appeal and sharp price points, we could capture as much of the market as we want,” said Boonshaft.

Batra, who has been in the CMC for over two decades, was similarly optimistic despite the current economic climate.

“Having a business for 22 years, you make a lot of money and learn to save it for the bad times,” she said. “We have been lucky enough to not have had really bad times last year or this year. Our sales this year are actually better than last year.”

New Mart Traffic Low

Several buyers at the nearby New Mart said traffic for this market was low compared to past years, although many showrooms selling immediate goods and refills seemed to fare best.

Attendance was down at the New Mart, which saw approximately 590 registered buyers, about 15 percent fewer than at last August’s market, according to New Mart manager Ethan Eller.

About 25 percent of the buyers at the show were attending for the first time, added Eller.

One reason for the decline, Eller said, is because local buyers may have opted to bypass buyer traffic and place their orders after market.

Economic jitters may have also been a contributinjg factor, Eller said.

“The dropoff at the retail level has left stores with a lot of inventory, so those buyers who are set with their inventory levels won’t come to this market to place orders for refills,” he said.

Many showrooms opted not to show early- Holiday and Spring collections at this market, saying they would debut them at MAGIC next month.

Still, the collections looked great.

Ruched-sleeve sports tops made with cotton and spandex, fitted denim biker jackets with striped sleeves and matching asymmetrical skirts were all the rage at Parasuco on the New Mart’s sixth floor, where showroom manager Shannon Matthews said traffic was limited to three to five buyers each day during market, with most of them placing orders for immediate deliveries.

Matthews also said several of the company’s regular buyers decided not to attend this season’s market because they recently returned from the Intermezzo show in New York. However, Matthews said several of those buyers have already made appointments to see the line at MAGIC, where the company will debut its Holiday and early- Spring collections.

“Our MAGIC appointments are up this year, so business should be good for next season,” she said.

Business was still brisk for certain showrooms, especially those that carry denim and novelty basics.

Fashion agent Barbara James, whose sixth-floor showroom in the New Mart features lines by Sisters, Shine, Sky by David Park, DP and Bella Blue, said buyers from Nordstrom, Macy’s and Arden B. were placing orders for immediate and 9/30 deliveries.

James, who showed a mixture of Fall and Holiday pieces, said many buyers were looking to offer plenty of variation for next season, with novelty silhouettes in vibrant, solid fabrications, such as DP’s rayon/polyesterblend panel mermaid skirt and knit tops with seam detail and kimono sleeves.

Trendwise, contemporary buyers were moving away from novelty embellishments and going for a cleaner look with basic styling, and, after a long and successful fashion revival, bohemian and peasant styles were beginning to lose their appeal with contemporary buyers, according to James, who added that retailers including Arden B. were interested in exposed seam details and pieces that focus on a more edgy, constructed look.

Specialty retailers Daniela Mount and Chantal Cadorin, who are planning a grand opening for their upscale boutique, Les Amies (French for “girlfriends”), in Sonoma County, Calif., on Labor Day weekend, said they were looking for unique, modern styles. Trina Turk, Petit Bateau, Autumn Cashmere, Seven Jeans, Paper Denim & Cloth and T Bags accessories were just a few lines they were interested in placing orders with.

Growth in the Annex

Some 550 buyers attended the Annex, a contemporary/young designer collective that is produced by New York-based Designers & Agents, located in a 22,000- square-foot loft space on the New Mart’s third floor. Attendance increased more than 20 percent over last year, according to Barbara Kramer, co-producer of the show.

In a year, the show has more than tripled its ready-to-wear and accessories offerings from 16 booths to 50 booths. The show featured novel collections by William B., Tibi and Paper Denim & Cloth from New York; Lotta, Samantha Chang, Viv & Ingrid and J.P. & Mattie from Los Angeles; Jophiel Design and Melissa Joy Manning from San Francisco; Diabless from Miami; and Graye/Grayejet from Texarkana, Texas, among others.

“We want to continue merchandising the show to complement each collection within it,” said Kramer.

Specialty retailer buyers from Max in Colorado, Phoebe 45 in Illinois and Intermix in New York were spotted shopping the show, as were local specialty store buyers from Planet Blue, Lisa Kline, American Rag, Dungarees and the Closet.

For this market the producers added a new program called Stylist Saturday. Kramer said it’s geared toward multimedia stylists in search of fresh ideas for their fashion shoots. The program also creates a unique environment for designers and stylists to sit down and collaborate on their ideas, she added.