California Apparel News

MIAMI, Fla.—Sunny weather and innovative swim collections lured many of the country’s leading apparel players to the Swimwear Association of Florida’s Cruise 2003 Swimwear Show, which took place July 20–24 at the Miami International Merchandise Mart.

Nearly 2,000 visitors attended the trade show to view the offerings of almost 600 exhibitors representing more than 1,700 lines of swimwear, beachwear and resortwear.

Judi Stein, executive show director, estimated that buyer attendance was up 10 percent over last year, adding that many came to the show to see a new wave of junior and contemporary collections.

The number of contemporary collections at the show this year increased by about 10 percent, including up-and-coming designer collections by Michael Simon, Lisa Curran, James, Rebecca Jewell, Ashley Paige and Akua Blu, according to Stein.

The show served as a springboard for new labels that were looking for East Coast exposure, said contemporary designer Rebecca Jewell, who is beginning to gain momentum with East Coast retailers. The Santa Monica, Calif.-based designer said her plans after the show included flying to New York to show the line to Barneys New York.

Several contemporary designers said they faced many challenges last spring, while junior exhibitors reported strong sales during the spring and makers of moderate swimwear reported a sluggish year. Seemingly, everyone was eager to see what was in store for Cruise 2003.

“It’s a big show with a lot of swimwear offerings for every retailer,” said Maxine Swim Group executive vice president Kenneth Nim, whose vertical operation in Los Angeles produces moderate missy swimwear under the Maxine of Hollywood label and recently acquired the license to produce Liz Claiborne swimwear.

Indeed, now that the economy is shaping up many swimwear makers said they were eager to test new styles and fabrications. Cruise 2003’s diverse offerings sparked strong interest from buyers, who seemed ready to take a chance on some of the more edgy styles, said Uzi Evron, president of New York-based Gottex, a division of Africa Israel Investment Group. “We’re getting a good response from our retailers and we’ve showed the line to several new retailers,” he said.

Added Susan Crank, president and chief executive officer of Anaheim, Calif.-based Lunada Bay, parent company of Becca and Rebecca V., “The reception is incredible this year and there’s a lot of enthusiasm for new product.”

Tustin, Calif.-based Raj Manufacturing and Los Angeles-based Manhattan Beachwear were among several exhibitors who beefed up their appointment books for this year’s show, with their sights set on specialty store business.

Buyers Upbeat

Several swim makers said buyers’ optimism presented opportunities for new business. The Miami show is typically the first preview of swimwear for the season, and, for that reason, many department store buyers at the show said they were holding off on placing orders until New York market. However, some exhibitors said they were offering discounts as an incentive to order early.

Several retailers said they would continue their cautious approach, although they said maintaining their inventories is top priority for next season.

“We’re looking at swimwear that is less risky and will continue to perform throughout the season,” said Debora Bentlage, moderate sportswear buyer at May Department Stores.

Abbe Cheskin of Abbe’s Place, a specialty store in Philadelphia, said sales were up 20 percent this year so far. Cheskin said she was looking to stock up her store for spring with a variety of new offerings for her sophisticated customer. She said halter styles with retro prints and sophisticated solids were staple items at her store.

“Buyers are looking for newness and their reaction is very positive,” said Moshe Tsabag, president of Hot Kiss, which recently inked a licensing deal with Manhattan Beachwear and debuted its new junior swimwear collection at the show. Patchwork floral prints, solid bikinis with lip prints and denim bikinis with grommet and turquoise detail were just a few pieces in Hot Kiss’ collection.

“It’s not really a paper show for department stores,” said Hubert Pouches, junior designer for surf photographer Aaron Chang’s collection. Still, the company made appointments with retailers including Macy’s and Victoria’s Secret, which took a liking to the collection’s sublimation prints on swimwear, boardshorts, and mesh and terry printed cover-ups. The San Diegobased company will have deliveries 9/30 to 12/30.

Still, several buyers said they were doing their planning earlier and revving up for a successful year in swimwear. Buyers Jonathan Urias and Rhea Aslin of Anaheim, Calif.-based Pac Sunwear, a mall-based specialty retailer that operates 759 retail stores in 49 states, said they were optimistic about planning key collections from the show’s diverse offerings.

Stacey Siegel, owner of Orlando, Fla.-based Everything But Water, which operates 42 specialty retail stores in the United States, said her stores are having strong junior business this summer. At the show, Siegel said she was looking for newness in silhouettes, as well as embellished tops that could be worn as sportswear.

Novel trims and detailing will be the deciding factor for many swimwear buyers going into next season, said Leslie Tobia, vice president of design for womenswear at Quiksilver, who designs junior collections under the Roxy, Raisins and Radio Fiji labels as well as the company’s missy collection, Leliane.

The company was among several swim makers that introduced embellished top styles at the show, including apron tops and cami suits that could easily cross over into sportswear when worn with denim or skirts. “We found that the junior customer, who is in touch with sportswear trends, wants something different and is looking for a suit that’s going to hit that look,” said Tobia.