ISAM: Refining Collections in the Last Bid for Cruise

Swim makers honed their offerings and buyers arrived with a few key styles in mind at the Oct. 9–11 run of the International Swimwear and Activewear Market (ISAM), which drew more than 1,500 buyers to the show’s new location at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium in Santa Monica, Calif.

This marked ISAM’s first show away from the California Market Center, home of the California Mart. Traffic fell short of expectations, according to many of the nearly 350 exhibitors occupying roughly 50,000 square feet of exhibitor space. But organizers were pleased with the turnout for the inaugural Santa Monica event.

Buyers typically shop ISAM to pick up a few hot-selling reorder items for the Cruise season because the show falls at the tail end of the show calendar after the Miami Swim Show, MAGIC International, the Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo, New York market week, Interfiliere in Lyon, France, and Surf Expo in Orlando, Fla. The show also serves as an early preview of Summer styles.

Several manufacturers who produce overseas remain cautious after last season’s cutbacks at retail left them with excess inventories. At ISAM, several swim executives said they shed a few styles and prints that weren’t working for them and added new styles prior to the show.

Authentic Fitness came to the show armed with several new styles added to its collections in preparation for an anticipated busy Spring season.

“Many swim makers put last year’s pitfalls behind them and are gearing up for a strong year at swim,” said Roger Williams, president of the Los Angeles-based company, which produces licensed swimwear for Ralph Lauren as well as the Speedo, Catalina, Cole of California, Anne Cole Collection, Anne Cole Locker, Sunset Beach and Hot Coles labels.

Swim labels including DKNY, J.Lo, Sunset Beach, Miracle Suit, Athena Size Disguise, Baja Blue, Wet Samba and Amare also said they freshened up their collections by adding new styles and prints.

One- and two-piece styles in unique fabrications with embellishments and embroidery as well as crochet and patchwork are some of the styles that are heating up the market.

Seemingly, newer swim companies can maneuver more easily than large manufacturers because their volume is smaller and they’re able to better accommodate retailers. And, because there are a lot of similar styles on the market, many companies try to tailor styles that are exclusive to their customers.

“If a buyer tells us that a certain style will sell, we will make it,” said Wet Samba’s Catia Silva, who founded the New York-based contemporary swim line four years ago with partner Patricia Zelesnikar.

Wet Samba’s business has increased significantly as a result of the company working together with swim makers, said Silva.

From altering specs to switching prints on certain styles, accommodating buyers’ needs is Silva and Zelesnikar’s business strategy.

Macy’s West moderate sportswear and swimwear buyer Sally Katz said it isn’t uncommon for retailers to suggest minor alterations in necklines for a better fit or the addition of a certain type of embellishment for a more updated look.

“We are always open to looking at new lines, we’re constantly adding to our matrix in order to satisfy our young customers, and sometimes that means working with [swim makers] to get the right styles into our stores,” she explained.

Waterfront Design Group, which produces branded swim lines By the Beach and Waterfront Swim as well as licensed swimwear for Gloria Vanderbilt and Rampage, said it is optimistic when listening to requests from retailers.

The Los Angeles-based swim maker occasionally combines separate pieces into swim sets or designs larger cup sizes to accommodate buyers’ requests.

“We are aware that retailers know what’s trending and what is being purchased by the consumer,” said Goldman. “Then we ask ourselves, ’Is this style part of our merchandising strategy?’”

Goldman said the company acted on some advice it received from several buyers to add more floral and plaid prints to its offerings. So, it designed a multi-print bikini for Rampage, featuring floral, plaid and scenic prints. The suit is Waterfront Design Group’s best seller, said Goldman.

West Coast specialty swim retailer Diane Biggs of Diane’s Swimwear said she relays consumer feedback to vendors in order to help them meet her customers’ needs.

“It’s a win-win situation for everyone given the state of our retail environment, with plenty of room to benefit,” said Biggs.