DNA Technology Could Fight Counterfeit Textiles

Los Angeles-based Applied DNA Sciences Inc. is developing an application of its patented embedded-DNA authentication technology that could relieve apparel and textile companies of counterfeit goods.

Applied DNA is using the DNA of textiles and plants to mark raw textile products and finished goods. The goal of the process is to help customs officials and companies identify products through Applied DNA’s proprietary detection solutions. The company said the markers are able to withstand textile-production processes such as desizing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing and can remain embedded in fabrics for more than 100 years.

The DNA markers would help protect intellectual property such as brands, designs, patterns and trademarked products from counterfeiting and fraud, which steal tens of thousands of dollars from the industry, said Applied DNA spokesperson Kristin Gabriel. The identification system can pinpoint the regions and factories that produced marked items.

Gabriel said the identification system should be available to the industry during the fourth quarter of 2003 at a cost of about a penny a pound.

“We are extremely enthused about the prospect of introducing a DNA marker system for the textile industry,” said Applied DNA president Larry Lee. “The development of such a system could play a significant role in the U.S. textile and worldwide anti-counterfeit and antifraud markets.”

Lee said illegal textile imports have been responsible for lost jobs and import tariffs for government agencies. He stated that the identification system could help customs officials enforce textile and apparel preferences and protect jobs.

In a similar development, Applied DNA has also created the first DNAtagged label security system in the North American and European markets. The company has processed DNA with anti-counterfeit ink, which can be applied to any surface.

Labels can be printed with proprietary ink containing a unique DNA code for each manufacturer. The labels can then be tested for authenticity and traced to authorized points of origin.

Other products are also being developed to combat counterfeit goods. This week, the Benetton Group announced it is working with Dutch firm Philips Electronics, Italian company LAB ID and United Kingdom-based Psion Teklogix to provide Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tagging technology for its Sisley line of apparel. These “smart tags” will contain microchip transmitters that will allow the Italian retailer to track its garments from the moment they are produced to the moment they are sold in any of its 5,000 shops. If the garments end up in the wrong hands along the way, Benetton and its suppliers will know.

The system will also help the retailer track its stock levels and make restocking decisions quickly, even automatically, said Terry Phipps, electronic data-processing director for Benetton.

“We have thousands of retail outlets worldwide, and we wanted to put in place a future-proof technology to bring clear cost benefits to the business while seamlessly enabling garments to be tracked throughout their lifetime,” he said.

Phipps said Benetton’s tags are imperceptible to wearers and can store style, sizing and color data in a chip the size of a rice grain.

Other apparel companies, such as Prada, have used RFID inventory tags. Wal-Mart is also pursuing smart-tag technology for restocking, anti-theft and anti-counterfeit purposes.

Government agencies are interested in promoting such technologies for trademark purposes and because they suspect terrorist groups, such as Hezbollah and Hamas, are using the proceeds from illegal sales of counterfeit apparel to help finance their operations. This week, officials in Dublin, Ireland, seized counterfeit Nike, Adidas, Polo and Levi’s clothing with a retail value of $330,000.

For more information, go to www.adnas.com.