Rucker Leaves Joie, Azria Steps In

Joie Rucker, founder of Los Angeles–based Joie, said she has left the better contemporary sportswear company to pursue other design opportunities.

The young and energetic designer sold her share in the comtemporary denim sportswear maker, which bears her name, to Serge Azria, brother of BCBG founder Max Azria, for $1.4 million, with payments over a two-year period. Rucker said she hopes to launch a new contemporary sportswear collection for men and women this October.

She said she hopes to bow her line at New York’s Fashion Coterie in February. “I’m looking to go back to my roots, which is to make clothing that I like to wear, and not worry about chasing sales volume,” she said. “I want to have a company that grows organically as a result of customers who love my clothes; I don’t want my line to be trend driven, I want it to be styles that are quality driven.”

Several denim manufacturers are vying for Rucker’s new venture, including Paul Guez, chief executive officer at Azteca Production International Inc. in Los Angeles.

“Paul advised me and was a great supporter during my negotiations,” Rucker said.

Rucker held senior design positions at Levi Strauss & Co. and Guess ? Inc. before launching her eponymous label three years ago with Sean Barron and silent partner Andrew Rosen, founder of Theory.

The denim company quickly made a name for itself among specialty store buyers in search of high-quality denim sportswear for young women.

Rucker said her exit comes on the heels of production woes. Joie’s volume grew more than 700 percent in one year, Rucker said, adding that the company didn’t have enough capital to support production.

Azria said he was interested in the sportswear brand mainly because of its growth potential. “The company lost its direction because it was growing too fast. It just needs to refocus,” he said.

As Joie’s new design director, Azria plans to put together a new design team. The line will continue to be sold at better boutiques and department stores, including Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Fred Segal Fun in Santa Monica, Calif.

“Joie is ready to take steps in a new direction,” Azria explained. “We want to promote California high-end lifestyle. We’re going to make changes, and we’re going full force.”

Azria said sales could reach $100 million in five years. The line’s sales volume is currently at about $36 million.

The line is produced through full-package programs in Hong Kong, Los Angeles and South America. Currently, Joie has three freestanding retail stores in Japan.

The company will also engage in an aggressive marketing campaign and focus on retail expansion throughout Europe, Barron said. —Claudia Figueroa