Fashion-Focused Buying at Coterie

NEW YORK—A preview of spring weather and clear-cut Fall trends kept business brisk at the recent Fashion Coterie, held Feb. 29–March 2 at the Show Piers in New York.

“The weather puts everyone in the mood to shop,” said Gillian Edelson, sales representative for Los Angeles contemporary line Saja. “The East Coast is really picking up. Everyone is spending money.”

The mood was similarly upbeat at the Sheri Bodell booth, where Katherine Mintz, a rep with the Circle 5 Showroom in Los Angeles, said: “I’ve seen every store possible. They’re out to spend a little more money, and they are putting pen to paper.”

And John Cherpas, co-designer of Los Angeles–based contemporary line Grass, met with Ron Herman at Fred Segal Melrose buyer John Eshaya first thing on opening day and landed an order from the retailer. “That’s a great way to start the day,” he said.

About 12,000 people, slightly more than last season, turned out to review the Fall lines from some 1,198 collections. Many California labels—including Tyler, BCBGMaxAzria, Juicy Couture, Joie, Louis Verdad, Da-Nang and A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz—exhibited at the show.

Among the retailers spotted shopping the show were buyers from Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Bloomingdale’s, French retailers Bon Marcheacute; and Printemps, and British retailers Liberty of London and Selfridges & Co.

“We’ve had very few moments of reprieve, which is great,” said Edward An designer Lori Schlachter- Batt. “Everybody has had a great response with Spring/Summer, so they’re here to get more. They feel confident, and there seems to be no resistance to buying Fall.”

The company, known for its retro-inspired coats, recently added more sportswear pieces, including cashmere sweaters and wool skirts. Schlachter-Batt said furtrimmed items were particularly popular with retailers.

Several representatives from California lines said they saw California retailers at the show, including Ron Herman at Fred Segal Melrose, Fred Segal Santa Monica, American Rag, Erica Dee, and Angel in Santa Barbara.

“People usually wait until L.A. to write, but they’ve been writing here,” said Lorraine Foxworth, owner of Los Angeles–based Churchgirl by Ta-Ning. The company, which makes clothing designed by Foxworth’s daughter, Ta-Ning, recently moved to a 5,000- square-foot design studio and headquarters on the first floor of the Cooper Building in downtown Los Angeles. In addition to the company’s tie-dyed mesh items, Churchgirl recently added tie-dyed cashmere pieces. Foxworth said a tie-dyed cashmere poncho sold very well at the show.

Enthusiastic buying

In general, retailers shared reps’ enthusiastic mood. East Coast retailer Marcy Schwait browsed the show with her husband, Saul, buying for Marcy G., their boutique in Cherry Hill, N.J.

“The clothes look exciting— more than they have for the last few years,” Marcy Schwait said.

The Schwaits said they attend all the New York shows, particularly the hotel shows, to hunt for European designer lines on par with their existing lines, which include Rosaria Lamanna and Rene Lazard.

At Coterie, the Schwaits said they were particularly impressed with French line Eunhwa, describing it as “very sleek, sophisticated and clean.”

“We don’t find a lot here. We’re more designer, but we always find items,” Marcy Schwait said.

Retailers Angela Neil and Anooshka Zakarian looked for items to stock their soon-to-open boutique, XS, in Irvine, Calif. The duo will split the 4,000-square-foot store between apparel and beauty products and devote a portion of the space to beauty treatments such as facials.

“It’s going to be a fresh new vibe. It will be clean, chic and modern,” Neil said. “We’re trying to focus on high-end products and clothing—more exclusive items.”