California Apparel News

A casual line with a vintage look. While the concept has been a familiar one in recent seasons, French expatriate Jenny Jarmoune has put a European spin on the popular trend.

Jarmoune launched Jenny Jen with her husband and partner, Pascal, in the summer of 2004 on the very trendy Rue Etienne Marcel in Paris. The couple moved to Los Angeles eight months ago to improve their quality of life and take advantage of the business opportunities in the area.

“I think the business is better here,” she said. “They are not afraid to buy a new creator’s line.”

Jarmoune adapted her line to fit the casual style that thrives in Los Angeles, utilizing the research skills and keen eye for detail she had honed in the fashion design office of French label Chloe, where she had worked for two years.

To develop the Jenny Jen line, Jarmoune shopped vintage stores in Paris and researched vintage fashion publications to find inspiration and details. For the second Los Angeles–based collection, she said she was inspired by the 1930s, or “les anneacute;es folles,” which means “the crazy years.” Her Fall/Winter ’05 collection offers a chic take on the decade with the casual, modern sensibility of today. She developed 1930s prints and decorated them with beads and sequin embellishments. For velvet tops and dresses, she draped ropes of crystals around the neck like long 1930s-style necklaces. The cotton jersey tees of her casual Jenny Jen Vintage collection are treated with a reaction dye and then discharge-washed for an extremely soft hand and a distressed vintage look. Corduroy and cotton twill pants are distressed and appliqueacute;d with embroidered patches. Jarmoune likes to combine the casual vintage- style tees with her handmade crocheted cardigans and the dressier 1930s-inspired printed skirts for a look that is chic and a bit bohemian.

Exquisite construction is key to the look of the line, according to Jarmoune.

“I think when the clothes have good finishing, they are better and more beautiful so it can be worn inside and out,” she said. “When you buy something, you want it to have the quality.”

Pascal Jarmoune oversees production, utilizing the experience he gained as chief executive officer of a Paris-based manufacturer of private-label clothing. A wool skirt with metal sequins and a patchwork yarn pattern is hand-loomed using a process that requires more than 100 hours of work. And a lamb’s wool jacket with washed leather trim is produced in the same factory used by Balenciaga, Christian Dior and Galliano.

Pieces are finished with couture techniques, including picot finishes and hand-embroidered appliqueacute;s and sequin details on silk chiffon and handmade crocheted balls applied to scarves and sweaters. Wholesale price points are $24 to $29 for vintagestyle cotton tees; $94 to $109 for corduroy and cotton twill pants; $135 to $195 for crocheted cashmere and wool/cashmere wrap tops, vests, cardigans and scarves; $68 to $295 for silk chiffon and satin tops, skirts and dresses with embroidered flower appliqueacute;s and sequin details; $96 to $198 for printed silk jersey tops, skirts and dresses; $425 for a lamb’s wool and leather jacket; and $1,650 for a handmade vintage wool skirt. The line has been picked up by Franck and Fils and Galleries Lafayette in Paris; H. Lorenzo, Madison and Fred Segal Flair in Santa Monica, Calif.; Elements in Dallas; Diani in Santa Barbara, Calif.; and First Impressions in Lafayette, Pa.

For more information, visit the Laurie Hasson showroom in suite 700 of The New Mart, or call (213) 229-8700.

—N. Jayne Seward