California Apparel News

Menswear buyers attending the Aug. 6–7 run of the West Coast Exclusive menswear show in Los Angeles were picky and particular with their buys, giving an early indication for the upcoming Las Vegas shows that they may be hard sells for big long-term orders as well.

The modus operandi at WCE, held at the Embassy Suites near Los Angeles International Airport, was to cherry-pick items and reorder, said Heidi Kearns, West Coast sales agent for American Essentials.

“They buy one-of-a-kind items, then reorder what sells,” she said. “It’s a great fill-in business.”

Kearns reps the American Essentials loungewear, as well as high-end European brands Gran Sasso and Edo Popken of Switzerland.

She said it paid to have a solid in-stock program. “That’s big on retailers’ minds. It doesn’t impact their open-to-buy as much.”

Indeed, resources such as Haupt were highlighting the company’s in-stock program, which carries key items from Haupt, Alberto and Point of Italy on a quick-ship basis.

“For the Haupt shirts, for example, we will keep 12 different colors in stock all the time,” said Steven Matus, who represents Schuyler 4 Ltd. in Beverly Hills, Calif. “That makes us a powerful resource.”

WCE President Larry Hymes agreed that the competitive environment had forced buyers to get more focused with their purchases. “The men’s business is tough right now. It’s become an item business, and stores here are looking for items to fill in.”

Another factor contributing to a consumer slowdown may be mortgage rates, added Kearns. “People with adjustable mortgages have seen their statements go up $300 to $400 a month.”

That has contributed to a polarization with the low- and high-end performing well, but making the middle market more vulnerable, she said.

One area that has remained strong across the board is denim, but even that category may experience some shakeout, said Hymes.

“The majors are prospering, and I think some of the new companies will fall out and you’ll see just the big boys left.”

Hymes represents Sunland, Calif.–based Kaptain Bubble Leather Designs, which has developed unique texture on leather for men’s and women’s jackets, pants and bags.

Matus said his European denim lines had translated well to the U.S. market.

“Our Alberto line is among the hottest-selling denim right now, especially our five-pocket models,” he said. “We were very, very busy in New York and are already almost booked for Las Vegas.”

Another trend continuing at WCE was a move away from bold graphics and stripes and toward solid colors for shirtings.

“It’s more like soft brights, not in your face,” explained Robin Sekiguchi, West Coast rep for Anthology, which featured silk/Tencel shirts in colors such as butter and tangerine.

“Linen is on fire right now,” added Kearns.

In the dress shirt category, Paris Blumenthal Associates of Beverly Hills was highlighting a “build your own shirt” program with its Italian resource Ingram/ Cantoni. “You can pick from various collars or buttons, cuffs—anything,” Blumenthal said.

The company also was highlighting a new line of belts from Z&B Creazione, which allows users to adjust to various waist sizes. The aim is to offer customization and service, Blumenthal said.

WCE featured about 60 exhibitors. Hymes said retailer attendance was up 20 percent over the previous show and drew a pool of out-of-state buyers as well as locals.

Buyer Realite Titus of Oakland, Calif.–based Deep Sole Men said the show provided a good venue to help balance her merchandise mix, which features urban and luxury items.

“We come here to try to bridge the gap between urban and high-end,” she said. “You can’t be too extreme on either end right now. By staying balanced, we’re doing all right now.”

For vendors, the show offered an early read on buying trends and a way to ease the crunch in Las Vegas. “If you can knock off 15 to 20 appointments here, it really helps in Las Vegas,” said Sekiguchi.

WCE’s counterpart, The Exclusive, will take place Aug. 27–29 in Hall C of the Sands Expo Convention Center in Las Vegas. ENK Productions is leasing space from the group to put on its new ACICLV (Accessories Circuit/Intermezzo Collections Las Vegas) accessories and apparel show in the neighboring halls. The center adjoins The Venetian hotel. For more information, visit theexclusiveshow.com.