California Apparel News

Buyers stock up on Immediate-delivery merchandise, as well as goods for later deliveries

Retailers came to the Los Angeles Fashion Market Jan. 13–17 to buy inventory for the summer months—but they also wrote orders for Spring, according to showroom owners at the California Market Center, The New Mart, Cooper Design Space and Gerry Building.

The multi-season shopping spree made California’s first apparel trade show of 2006 a success, said showroom owner Michael Gae.

“We sold everything,” said Gae, the co-owner of the Rep Et Trois showroom in the California Market Center. “Retailers wrote orders for Jan. 30 deliveries to May 30 deliveries. They came to buy the best of California.” The Rep Et Trois showroom’s earnings for the 2006 show were three times higher than the showroom’s revenue for the 2005 January market, according to Gae.

The CMC did not release attendance figures for the market, but representatives of the building’s managers said the retailers shopping at the show included Nordstrom, Anthropologie, Kitson, Macy’s West, Madison and Dillard’s.

Organizers also said traffic in the building was aided by the concurrent temporary shows in the CMC, including ENK’s Brighte Cos. show, which ran Jan. 13–16 in the Fashion Theater, and the L.A. Shoe Show, which was held Jan. 15–16 on the 13th floor.

Liza Stewart, president of Liza Stewart Inc. in the CMC, reported that her January 2006 sales were 25 percent better than her January 2005 sales. Stewart predicted that the strong sales would continue throughout the year.

“It’s going to be an even better year because we’re seeing a lot of new stores open in Southern California and the Pacific Northwest,” she said.

Confident start to 2006

Retailers were in the mood to buy after a Holiday season marked by solid sales. December 2005 retail sales increased 3.2 percent over the same time the previous year, according to the New York–based International Council of Shopping Centers.

The good business continued through the first week of January, when sales rose 3.7 percent over the same period in 2005. Sales dropped 1.4 percent in the week of Jan. 14, said the ICSC. But retail confidence remains high.

Fraser Ross, owner of the Kitson boutique on Los Angeles’ Robertson Boulevard, said he’s been pleased.

“January started out great,” Ross said. “There are so many tourists in town.”

He said that most of the trends of 2005 would carry over to 2006. He gave high praise to Los Angeles–based manufacturer Rebel Yell and purchased April 30 and May 30 deliveries from that tops line. But he said he worried that retailers were relying too much on selling denim and that manufacturers weren’t doing enough to produce distinctive product. “They’re all chasing the same trend without establishing their own look,” he said.

Return to simplicity?

Retailer Jeannie Lee purchased labels that emphasized simplicity for her boutique Satine in Los Angeles’ sophisticated West Third Street retail district.

“We’re coming off the whole bohemian trend, and neo-hippie was a little complicated,” Lee said. “Fashion is going the other way in 2006. It’s simpler and refreshing.” She purchased labels such as Los Angeles–based underwear line Skin, Los Angeles–based tops line Blake, and Soya, a Paris-based line of Victorian lace satin tops and dresses.

Jeans will continue to be popular, but they’ll have straighter legs, according to Erica D. Thomas, owner of the Erica D boutique in Corona del Mar, Calif. Thomas predicted chambray fabrications would be popular in 2006 and that shorts would take on added importance. “I saw short shorts in every collection,” Thomas said.

Erica D will be expanding into a 4,000-square-foot store in Summer 2006 with 3,000 square feet dedicated to women’s apparel and 1,000 square feet reserved for men’s.

Traffic up

Buyer traffic climbed well into the double-digit percentages at The New Mart and Cooper Design Space, where mostly contemporary lines were shown. The buildings also hosted the Designers & Agents Annex show.

New Mart attendance was up 27 percent, reported Ethan Eller, the building’s general manager.

“I talked to a few people in the lobby area and they said they had their best markets ever.”

Mona Sangkala said Cooper traffic was up 30 percent, aided by about 20 new showrooms that opened last year.

The D&A Annex experienced even better results, with a 46 percent increase in traffic, said Barbara Kramer, co-producer of the show, which operates on the third floor of The New Mart and the 11th floor of the Cooper.

“Everyone’s in a positive mood,” she said. “We had a very good show in New York, where a number of our exhibitors said they had record days. I think this market is very targeted, and that helps.”

Evolving trends appeared to be steering away from the heavy embellishments of past seasons toward cleaner looks. Buyers said they are more upbeat and looking forward to Summer.

“It’s been a long winter,” said Tiffany Cantu of Glendale, Calif.–based Cake Couture, showing at D&A. “Everyone wants airy, feminine stuff now.”

Cantu showed floral prints and a variety of tunics in gauze with lace embroidery and ethnic, Mexican art prints, wholesale priced from $69.

“It’s about easy dressing and comfort,” added Diana Buckroyd of the Aire showroom, based in the Cooper Design Space. Buckroyd did well with spaghetti-strap tunics by Krisa and flip-flops in terrycloth and gingham by Mella.

Feminine looks are still a hit, but they are also evolving into cleaner silhouettes, exhibitors said.

“It’s going away from the big, full skirts with sequins that we saw last Summer toward pencil skirts. Everything’s been cleaned up, said Norma Zuckerman of The Pink Room at The Company Z, based in The New Mart.

Sailor looks—shorts, tops and jackets in red, white and blue—were drawing interest in the Fille showroom in the Cooper, said representative Sara Dollinger. Items by Heatherette were leading the way, especially since the company lowered prices for certain categories. “It’s totally wearable. The company has a reputation for being wild, but after the buyers see it, they love it,” said Dollinger, who added that stores including Nordstrom at the South Coast Plaza shopping center in Orange County, Calif., picked up several items.

“It’s so much better now,” she said. “Some stores were struggling last year, but they’re doing well, and everyone has high hopes for the year.”

Similar trends carried over to denim makers, who added lots of Bermuda shorts, skinny-leg cuts and lighter colors for Summer.

“White is huge right now,” said Gina Gomez, a representative for Red Engine Jeans, which recently expanded its corporate showroom in the Cooper. The company was highlighting a new 8-ounce denim for Summer as well as skinny- and straight-leg styles. Red Engine has been on a high since its denim was seen on Jessica Simpson in the movie “Dukes of Hazzard.”

Robin’s Jeans was also highlighting military styles and stretch poplin as well as straight-leg styles.

Company representative Zel Marquez said she was a bit concerned about the show coinciding with Project in New York, which opened Jan. 16.

“Some people are slowing down with denim, but we have lots of momentum,” she said.

Many retailers were eyeing denim-friendly tops and other accompaniments.

“We like the old vintage, burnout looks with nice graphics,” said Nick Agunos, of Onani Vintage in Valencia, Calif., which is opening a new store in April. “We do well with True Religion, and now we’re expanding into kids, so brands are important.”

Peter Eny, of Ethan’s in San Francisco, was also on the lookout for interesting tops. He found some with Custo Barcelona and was seeking more European labels to spur business, which has been improving.

“It’s smoothing out and has been fairly good, better than last year,” he said.

Retailer-turned-manufacturer Mark Fox thinks he has an answer for those looking for a shirt resource. He was getting lots of attention at the D&A for his Aurora Gloryalice shirts and jerseys featuring psychedelic ’60s “Summer of Love” original art and fantasy-storybook motifs on washed jersey fabrics and raglan cuts. Fox is rolling out his first deliveries this spring.

“This show was huge for us,” he said. “I saw stores from all over North America.”

Fox already is expanding into collared shirts, thermals and fleece for next season. The line is wholesale priced from $36.

Other hits for reps were Velvet Leaf, a line of organic hippy-esque vests, tanks and blouses produced out of Livermore, Calif.; Fab One, a line of riveted tops and bottoms shown in the SFLA showroom in The New Mart; and Melinda Maria Jewelry, a line of handcrafted gold and gold-filled necklaces, earrings and bracelets made by former Hollywood makeup artist Melinda Raney.

Brighte shines, Gerry turns corner

Vendors at the Brighte Cos. trade show, held in the California Market Center’s Fashion Theater, reported a good show. “It got off to a flying start,” said Gillian Julius, owner of a Los Angeles–based accessories line that bears her name. “One percent were taking notes, the rest were ordering,” she said. Nordstrom, Fred Segal and Harari were a few of the retailers who shopped at Brighte Cos.

In past years, the Gerry Building has reported low walk-in traffic during appointment-driven market weeks. But the January trade show may prove a new direction for Gerry. The building does not track attendance, but Larry Hudson, the building’s general manager, said it appeared traffic jumped due to the increased number of building directories handed out at the show.

“We burned through 600 directories” as opposed to the usual 350, he said. “Tenants in the building are being diligent about their appointments. We still tend to be an appointment-driven building.”

New Gerry tenants, such as Italian denim line Miss Sixty, attracted more buyers to the building, according to Hudson. Building vendors also noticed increased foot traffic. “People are realizing there are good lines in this building,” said Roman Valdez, account manager for San Francisco–based Blue Marlin Corp. “They’re willing to cross the street and explore.”