California Apparel News

MIAMI BEACH, Fla.—There was plenty of newness to entice buyers at the Swimwear Association of Florida’s SwimShow 2007 July 15–19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Settling into its second year at the convention center, the show attracted approximately 2,000 lines, up from 1,700lines last year. Jumping into the fray were new brands from swimwear hopefuls to new divisions from seasoned swim veterans. The event’s organizers said final numbers were not yet available, but they expected a 21 percent increase overall.

Exhibitors reported seeing buyers from major department stores, Internet retailers and specialty stores. Representatives from Pacific Sunwear of California, all of the Federated divisions, Henri Bendel, Saks Inc., Ritz Carlton, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, Diane’s Swimwear, Free People, Alloy, Delia’s, JCPenney, Sears and Victoria’s Secret shopped the show. Buyers from Canada, Mexico, England and South America also made the trek to Miami Beach to preview Resort 2007 offerings.

The five-day show earned rave reviews from exhibitors for its professionalism and quality of buyers, but some noted slow traffic. “This is where you come to effectively address the business of swim. Attendance, in terms of traffic, was entirely relevant but seemed light,” said Alain Mazer, international marketing director for the Australian surfwear brand Hot Tuna. The company, which recently brought its licenses back in-house, used the show to launch its new line of contemporary swimwear.

Adding to the sense of excitement was the second installment of Miami’s first official fashion week—Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami Presented by Lycra. The four nights of fashion shows, at the Raleigh Hotel in Miami Beach, were orchestrated by IMG Fashion, producer of Los Angeles’ Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios and Olympus Fashion Week in New York.

At the convention center, designers claimed a good portion of the show floor. Diane von Furstenberg Beach, Betsey Johnson Swim, St. John Swimwear, Trina Turk, Carmen Marc Valvo, Juicy Couture Beach and Michael Kors Runway attracted buyers in search of poolside luxury.

Judy Stein, executive show director, said this caliber and depth of designer offering is a first at the show. “The show is elevating itself in the level of exhibitor we’re offering,” she said.

Launching pad

As the earliest and biggest swim show of the season, SwimShow 2007 gave many brands the ideal platform from which to launch new endeavors.

Ocean Pacific, a division of Warnaco Swimwear Group, debuted OP Sunwear, a new line of junior coverups, sweats and Tshirts derived from the brand’s swimwear. Bowing with Spring 2007, the line will include jumpers, hoodies and dress shapes, but no jackets or denim.

“The concept is that it’s all beach-related product tied to the swim line,” said Dick Baker, president of Ocean Pacific. “The plan is to eventually expand it into other categories.”

Also new to the Op brand is NBA Beach, a swim and knit line that brings the surf attitude to professional basketball fans of both sexes. Based on templates that will be customized with teams’ logos and colors, the line includes bikinis, boardshorts, sweat pants, shorts and sweatshirts. So far, the Los Angeles Lakers have signed on to the program, which plans to sell the team-branded items at sporting goods stores and perhaps major department stores.

Apparel Ventures brought back young contemporary brand La Playa after dropping it for a season. A younger version of the company’s La Blanca by Rod Beattie—also designed by Rod Beattie—La Playa reemerged with cute and quirky fabrications, including terry cloth bikinis and touches of leather. The company feels confident the fourth try is the charm. “We’re getting a great reaction,” Beattie said. “It has a point of view.”

BlueWaterDesignGroup, a division of Gardena, Calif.–based Apparel Ventures, made a splash with its new Trina Turk–licensed line of swimwear and coverups. Printheavy and retro-inspired, the line added a poolside Palm Springs vibe to the company’s offerings. Howard Greller, president of Blue- Water, said the local Miami buyers also identified with the new line’s sunny colors and allover prints. In fact, Greller reported that Turk is on the hunt for an appropriate Miami location for a new boutique.

Cypress, Calif.–based Manhattan Beachwear debuted its newest license acquisition, Split. The juniors surf brand debuts for the Spring 2007 season.

“It really is a new beginning and a new launch for this brand,” said Marcia Oda, the brand’s corporate account manager. “It is a very different feeling, and it’s going to fit into the core of the Orange County surf/skate and rock ’n’ roll world.” The line features fresh takes on plaids, prints and skimpy cuts.

“Split’s sportswear is, on purpose, a little bit more exclusive and limited [in] distribution,” Oda said, “but swimwear is viewed as an opportunity to be a national brand.”

Vernon, Calif.–based Warnaco Swimwear culled some of its lines and added to others. The company dropped Nautica Signature but added to its Speedo offerings. Speedo Sculpt, a line of slimming swimwear for women, and a collection of fast-fashion–inspired swimwear for teen girls (think trendy T-shirt and tattoo-inspired prints) debuted for Spring 2007. The company also added a collection of performance swimwear with evening gown–inspired backs for swimmers and athletes.

Luxe life

From the catwalk to the trade show floor, rich details and sex appeal were the big trends.

Missoni-inspired prints were re-imagined for every demographic and in every color combination.

Metal—whether in foil form, on hardware or covering an entire suit—was everywhere. Gold, silver and bronze got their share of attention, and several brands tapped copper as next season’s big winner.

Skulls and all manner of pirate and nautical references were popular among junior brands looking to tap into the Disney blockbuster “Pirates of the Caribbean.” Anything that could be found in a pirate’s chest was used for inspiration. Rich jewel tones, metal embellishments and crystals all appeared on sweet suits alongside skulls and anchor tattoo graphics.

Super-sexy one-piece suits were big news. With plunging necklines, open backs andhigh-cut legs, the one-piece made the leap from mommy’s best friend to the ultimate in swimwear fashion. Shown in prints and solids, matte and shimmery fabric, the onepiece came out en masse.

Coverups claimed a good chunk of buyer attention. The category has been big news in the last year as it grew in importance for retailers. Lucky Brand swimwear said coverups make up 25 percent of their sales and a rep at Diane von Furstenberg said they’ve been selling two coverups for every suit.

Fabrications in silk knits, silk chiffon and gauzy cotton got good reactions from buyers. New coverup categories included leggings, sundresses and elongated hoodies. Melanie Safer, owner of Pampo’s Dance & Swimwear in Baton Rouge, La., said she shopped the show and planned to write orders immediately. Contemporary and juniors swimwear ranked high on her shopping list, including Original Penguin, Vitamin A, Roxy, Billabong and L-Space suits. “My budget is the same as last year,” Safer said. “The college girls and high school girls keep our swimwear business strong.”

Trends she thinks will do well for her are nautical, striped and polka-dot prints, reversible suits and ethnic-inspired touches, including animal prints and beading. Onepieces, though staples on this year’s runway, just won’t do for her sun-loving clients. “Everyone wants a tan, so they’re a hard sell. We’ll stock some, but not a lot.”

Safer said her coverup business has gotten stronger over the last year. While long dresses and flowy caftans showed on the runway, Safer said her clients prefer shorter silhouettes in jersey and terry cloth.

Buyers for B&B Department Stores in New Jersey came to the show with a bigger budget than last year. Laura Toomey, partner, and Karen Gallina, buyer, searched the aisles for contemporary, separates, missy and kids’ swimwear. They liked the variety available at the show, but said they wished there were more kids’ offerings. “So far, contemporary swimwear has been the standout. Their fabrics and cuts are fantastic,” Gallina said.