Plus-Size Gets Focused on Fashion
The plus-size market is getting a long overdue injection of fashion—thanks to emerging designers such as Santa Ana, Calif.–based Jessica Svoboda, who is among a handful of labels bringing the category a contemporary touch.
Svoboda, who launched her eponymous contemporary denim and knit line Svoboda about two years ago, has been steadily making inroads via Internet sales and specialty stores. More recently, she has made progress at the department store level, having picked up orders from Lord & Taylor, following up a previous deal with Nordstrom.
The Lord & Taylor deal was somewhat of a coup for the plus-size specialist, whose main distribution channel has been the Internet and specialty stores. It also was a score for the plus-size market in general. The category has been stigmatized and has lacked focus, according to buyers and consumers alike. But Svoboda said that was changing, as she talked about the full-figured woman becoming more “empowered” by fashion and receiving more cultural reinforcement in general.
“There are different clothing options for different lifestyles,” she said. “You have to provide options for those consumers.”
Plus-size has been evolving from an extension of the misses category into a more-rounded business that offers everything from juniors and contemporary apparel to lingerie and sportswear.
Hot Topic’s Torrid chain, featuring plus-wear for teens, has been a star for the Industry, Calif.–based chain, yet the 20- and 30- something women looking for style have been underserved, said Barbara Stecher, better womenswear specialist at The Doneger Group.
“It’s been a mixed bag,” she said. “You see more of the branded lines like Ellen Tracy and Karen Kane in this segment, so there’s definitely room to grow in the contemporary category and younger women’s fashions.”
Stecher said designers such as Svoboda and others have been successfully mining the specialty channel, but Svoboda’s Lord & Taylor deal opened a channel into the better department store business. “It’s big news,” she said.
Others also have made inroads. Designer Anna Scholz also is in Lord & Taylor, and designer Gayla Bentley is now in Neiman Marcus.W.D.N.Y. has also gained momentum, said Stecher.
Svoboda specializes in premium denim produced in Los Angeles, as well as knitwear. “I use the same wash houses that the big contemporary denim lines use,” she said.
Lord & Taylor will carry the company’s “Alex” jean and “Charlayne” skirt for summer, among other styles, with plans for more styles in the fall. Other styles include dark washed jeans, trouser cuts, embroidery, studded detailing and motorcycle jackets, along with tanks and tees. Svoboda produces in sizes 12–24.
According to numerous sizing surveys, the average American woman wears sizes 14–16, and fitting and sizing have been challenges, said Svoboda.
“Many women who wear a size 10 or 12 are too large for couture lines and too small for a true plus cut,” she explained. “It’s not just about grading up.”
Aside from fit and style, pricing also has been an issue in the plus-size market.
Svoboda’s retail price points of $130 for denim and $100 for knit tops have sometimes been met with sticker shock by consumers more used to moderate prices in the plus-size department.
“Once they try the clothes on, it’s a different story,” she said. “We use the best washes and materials and construction, so it’s what the garment cost.”
Over the last year, Svoboda has done countless trunk shows, building relationships not just with stores but with consumers as well. Customers on her Web site speak of having life-altering experiences once they found fashionable clothing that fits.
“When you are able to express yourself on the outside, you get treated how you want to be treated,” the designer said. “We form lots of personal relationships.”
Next up for Svoboda is expansion into lingerie and swimwear later this year. For more information, visit www.svobodastyle.com.
