California Apparel News

The Kingpins’ first show in Los Angeles was deemed a success as 15 denim suppliers, laundries and trim companies proved to be a draw to many of the city’s best-known premium-denim brands.

The New York–based show held its first West Coast run Oct. 11–12 at a loft-like space north of downtown Los Angeles. The show, which has been held biannually in New York for the past three years, is open to invited denim manufacturers only.

Among the companies that turned out for the first West Coast show were Guess, BCBG Max Azria, GoldSign, Rock & Republic, Serfontaine, True Religion, Habitual, Hause of Howe, Great China Wall, Ever, Bread, Stussy, Red Engine, Koos Manufacturing, Lucky Brand, Paige Premium Denim and Disney, according to Andrew Olah, owner of show producer Olah Inc. The show drew 17 visitors on the first day and 40 on the second day, according to Olah, who said the turnout for the two-day show was better than the turnout for the first Kingpins show in New York.

“I think we did really, really well,” said Olah. “But I think we could do better. The last New York show we had about 75 customers. I think in two days in New York and two days in Los Angeles, it’s feasible that we could see 150 or 160 customers.”

Among the exhibitors was Apholos, an Argentina-based maker of high-end trims including custom buttons, buckles, rivets and snaps. The nearly vertical company does everything from design development to die-casting to finishing in its Buenos Aires facility.

The company has a representative in Los Angeles, Franck (CQ) Noel, who was at The Kingpins with Luciana Botner, Apholos’ product coordinator for the United States.

“Even if the line is designed in New York, they are sewing or washing here,” said Noel.

Botner said the Los Angeles show was a good idea because it afforded direct access to potential customers.

“You can work directly with the designers, who are the decision makers,” she said.

Dante Magni, export manager for Corduroy, a textile firm in Satilde;o Paulo, Brazil, said the Los Angeles show gave him the chance to work with some of his largest customers in a central location.

“Our main clients are here in L.A.,” he said, listing Koos Manufacturing, Adriano Goldschmied and J Brand among the customers of the 50-year-old textile firm. The company has three facilities in Satilde;o Paolo manufacturing corduroy and denim, and among the three has a production capacity of 4.5 million meters per month, he said.

“We work with everybody,” he said. “This is one of our advantages. We are flexible in our minimum quantities for orders and our minimum quantities for colors.”

The show also featured high-end laundry Martelli, which has four facilities in Italy, as well as a facility in Romania and one in Turkey. Next year, Martelli will open another laundry in Morocco, according to key account representative Andrea Petrin.

“It’s very important to be here in the United States,” said Petrin, who said several years ago large U.S. companies like Donna Karan were using Martelli’s Italian facilities. But these days, most large U.S. companies are interested in working with Martelli’s facility in Turkey. Still, 95 percent of Martelli’s customers for its Italian laundries are based in Italy. Although that is changing, Petrin noted.

“There are a lot of customers in Italy, too, looking for a cheaper country [to finish goods],” he said.

Martelli has a maximum capacity of 7 million garments per year, Petrin said, noting that the company works with large manufacturers like Diesel and Gas, as well as smaller labels that “give me a few thousand pieces.” Many of the smaller production runs come from high-end brands including Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci and D2, he said.

Francesco Martini, sales manager for Italian textile maker Olimpias, called the West Coast market “very interesting.”

“This area is very different from New York,” he said. “In New York, everyone is concerned about prices. Here, people think more about the quality. For a European mill, this is very interesting because we cannot compete with China [on price].”

Sales Manager Francesco Martini was at The Kingpins representing Italian textile maker Olimpias. The mill is part of a group of 12 different companies, which was originally founded when Italian retailer/manufacturer Benetton decided to become more vertically integrated and open a textile arm. Some of Olimpias’ divisions still work directly for Benetton, Martini said, but for his division, only about 25 percent of his business is with the megabrand. The rest of his business is primarily made up of Italian companies, including Giorgio Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Diesel.

In Los Angeles, Olimpias works with Koos, Red Engine and Goldsign.

“We’ve worked in California quite a long time but not in huge quantities,” he said.

Among the new developments Olimpias was showing at The Kingpins is a true black denim called “Permanent Black,” which retains its color after multiple washings.

Martini described the West Coast market as “very interesting.”

“This area is very different from New York,” he said. In New York, everyone is concerned about prices. Here, people think more about the quality. For a European mill, this is very interesting because we cannot compete with China [on price].”

Olah said the company plans to return for another Kingpins show in mid-February or mid-March, hopefully in the same location.

“I like this venue,” said Olah. “I’m hesitant to change the DNA of the show. I might one day, but I hope I don’t.”

For more information about The Kingpins, visit www.kingpins.info. For more information about Olah Inc., visit www.olah.com, or call (212) 260-9266.