Technology, Sustainability on Agenda at Garment-Washing Symposium
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) hosted its “Fashion Garment Washing: Trends, Fabrics, Technologies and Sustainability” symposium Dec. 12–13 at the Renaissance Hotel in Long Beach, Calif. The two-day conference attracted more than 190 attendees, including representatives from retailers, fabric agents, manufacturers, denim makers, chemical companies and dye houses including American Apparel, Gap, Target, JCPenney, Volcom, Nordstrom, Levi Strauss & Co., Olah Inc. and Nike. Veteran denim designer Adriano Goldschmied of the Goldsign premium-denim brand was among the symposium’s 25 speakers, who addressed topics from wash technology to innovative fashion fibers and the question of sustainability during the conference’s four sessions.
Sustainability was a major topic during the conference. Henry Boyter of the Institute of Textile Technology at North Carolina State University in Raleigh, N.C., stressed the need to arrive at a consensus on what exactly the term means.
“It can’t be just a public-relations gimmick” that suggests that a product is organic, eco-friendly, consumer-friendly or free of harmful substances, he said. “It has to mean something.” With several dozen different standards designated by a variety of watchdog groups, associations and manufacturers, consumers are overwhelmed and weary of products claiming to be sustainable.
In the past, Boyter said, brands and manufacturers have claimed sustainability and green initiatives to boost their corporate image. But recent news reports have questioned the validity of some companies’ eco-friendly initiatives. “The public is going to be aware, and they’re going to ask questions,” he said.
The future of sustainability will require money, creativity and dedication. According to Boyter, companies are going to have to conceive of product not in a “cradle to grave” trajectory, but rather in a “cradle to clone” cycle. “There will be no more waste. Everything will have to be recycled,” he said. That means manufacturers will have to exercise control over their supply chain and manufacturing processes. “Do you source products and not consider the sustainability of what you’re asking for? Do you ask for things that can’t be obtained sustainably?”
Dr. Manfred Wentz of the Oeko-Tex Certification Body agreed. “We have to get our act together and be concise when we talk about sustainability,” he said. At its core, the term means humans and the eco-system are in harmony ecologically, socially and economically. Economics play a large role in sustainability, Wentz said. “We have to make money or else we can’t offer anything, we can’t employ anyone,” he said.
