California Apparel News

Traffic was unexpectedly brisk at the Oct. 15–17 run of the Los Angeles International Textile Show at the California Market Center, where long lines at the registration counter continued up until the last hour of the show and trend presentations were packed with designers.

There were plenty of other industry events threatening to draw off traffic from the show, including Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, Calif., and ENK’s Children’s Club trade show in New York, both running concurrently. Plus, with the bridal market in New York and the Los Angeles Fashion Market both starting the following week, many regular attendees opted to skip the show and meet with their key resources at another time.

Ned Pilchman, president of New York–based American Fabrics International, said many of his childrenswear accounts were unable to attend the textile show.

“A lot of my customers complained that they want to be at this show. This is the best show in the U.S. for showing textiles, so people hate to miss it,” he said. “I have zero complaints [about the show], but the more people who come, the more business you do.”

Solstiss’ John Marshall said many of his bridal accounts came to see his line of French laces the week before the show.

For Francous Heumel, a representative of French mill Darever, the conflict was with the Los Angeles Fashion Market.

“Why does it take place a week before market? We miss the most important customers,” he said.

Peter T.M. Rigters returned to the textile show after a season off with his Vancouver, Canada–based Absolut Textiles Inc.

“We didn’t do the show last year, but we do a lot of business in L.A.,” said Rigters, who said he is a member of the Textile Association of Los Angeles. Absolut imports most of its fabrics from Italy, as well as some laces from France.

Rigters said he likes to be supportive of the textile show and only had two complaints: the $22-per-day parking rate in the building and the conflict with the runway shows in Culver City.

“I think it’s very bad for this show and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to have the same dates. You don’t really see the important designers,” he said.

Indeed, on the opening day of the show, it seemed unlikely that many of the designers showing at Smashbox would have time to visit the textile show. Even so, there seemed to be a strong turnout from the many designers and labels not participating in the runway shows. CMC officials said there was an 8 percent uptick in designer turnout, although overall attendance figures were not released.

Among the designers spotted shopping the show were Trina Turk, Peter Cohen, Eva Franco, Bruno Duluc, Mona Thalheimer, Tarina Tarantino, William Beranek, Michele Berandi, Society for Rational Dress’ Corine Grassini, Estevan Ramos and Rami Kashou, as well as representatives of JWLA, Karen Kane, Hale Bob, Lip Service and Felina.

According to exhibitors, other attendees included representatives from St. John, Three Dots, Ella Moss and Splendid, Adriano Goldschmied, Burning Torch, Notice, David Meister and Seaton.

And several designers and labels that did host fashion-week events did turn out—if only for a few hours. Kevan Hall, Joseph Domingo and Juuml;nker’s Giuliana Mayo all turned out on the last afternoon.

San Francisco–based Domingo said he normally spends at least two days at the show, but this season, because he was showing his collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, he could only visit on the last day. “Some reps are nice and come to me in San Francisco,” he said. Domingo was looking for fabrics with more texture and pattern but still with a sense of femininity.

Korea looks to Los Angeles

Exhibition space at the textile show was sold out, thanks in part to the 75 companies participating in the second annual Global Korea Textile Week, sponsored by KOTRA, the Korean Trade-Investment Agency, which also hosted runway shows featuring Korean fabrics and Korean designers.

At a press conference kicking off the week, Ha Myen Keun, vice president of the Korean Federation of Textiles, noted that exports of Korean textiles to the United States increased this year by 3 percent following the implementation of a free-trade agreement between the United States and Korea in April.

Ha stressed Los Angeles’ importance as a fashion center and noted that the city is a central point for Korea to enter the U.S. market.

While most of the Korean exhibitors were selling fabrics, there was a small group of Korean manufacturers showing, as well.

One of them, Dumi Jeans, based in Seoul, was at the show looking for private-label partners. The 12-year-old company produces its own branded label in China for the Korean market. Eventually, the company wants to distribute its own brand in the United States, but for now, it is looking for a U.S. company to partner with. The company opened its first factory in China in 2000 and is in the process of building another factory in China, which will open next year. With the new factory, the company will increase production by 200,000 units per month. “We want to get samples from reliable clients who can guarantee financing and quality,” said company Director Jennifer Lee.

Eco and innovation

The Korean fabrics caught the eye of several designers, including Los Angeles–based designer Bruno Duluc, who said he was looking for “everything from basics to the ’it’s a wow’ [fabric].” He was also on the hunt for “very advanced menswear [fabrics] that have technical advantages but look classic.”

Duluc found several from Korea, but the minimums were very high. According to the designer, many mills were offering 3,000-meter minimums. But he found a few resources that agreed to sell him 500-meter increments with a surcharge. “I’m building relationships,” he said.

Designer Peter Cohen typically skips the textile show altogether to meet with his key textile resources privately. But this season, he spent three days at the show, finding luxurious prints and laces from France and high-tech fabrics out of Switzerland, as well as several interesting items from Korea.

“I saw interesting fabrics with huge minimums,” he said, noting that he doesn’t usually shop for fabrics with a specific shopping list. “I look for a thing or two I’m keen on, but for the most part I’m open to anything,” he said.

Similarly, Michel Berandi was looking for Fall/Winter fabrics—and “something inspiring”—for a small collection he is producing. The Los Angeles–based designer is having a busy year. Berandi, who recently took on an investor he declined to name, said he will present his collection in Paris next year and will be opening two stores, one in New York and one in Tokyo. “It’s a year project,” he said.

Several textile-show attendees were looking for eco and sustainable fabrics, and this season, the show indicated which exhibitors carried eco goods by affixing a decal to the company’s booth or showroom.

Ann Davis, showing American Fabrics International, said she was pleased with the type of designers and companies shopping the show.

“The quality of attendees and the seriousness with which they’re doing business has increased tremendously,” she said.

Raphael Javaheri, owner of Los Angeles–based EcoTex, was similarly enthusiastic.

“There’s more awareness; people are willing to give [eco fabrics] a shot,” he said, noting that the company’s package program is also doing well. The company produces apparel from organic and sustainable materials in India, China and Peru.

Taste of Europe

Before the Oct. 15–17 run of the Los Angeles International Textile Show, two multi-line fabric companies joined forces to show their selection of European fabrics to a select group of invitation-only designers andmanufacturers.

Phil Fox of Los Angeles–based Fox Fabrics Inc. and Ghita Ferro of New York–based Renovazio LLC hosted the EuropeanTextile Rendezvous Oct. 2–3 at The Standard hotel in downtown Los Angeles.

“We do similar fabrics, so we complement each other,” Fox said, adding that Ferro had held a similar event in New York at the same time as Premiere Vision Preview. The two are discussing whether to join forces again in New York, but Fox said plans are underway to hold the European Textile Rendezvous again in Los Angeles in March.

Showing Fall/Winter 2008 lines, the Los Angeles show featured several Italian mills, including Seterie Argenti, Emmetex/Emmeci, Inwool Jersey, Pacini Nello, Gommatex Jersey, Montebello/NTB, Colombo, Tessilgodi, Efilan, Aquafabric/Smeralda Berto, Algitex, Duebi, Rosati, MTT, Migotex, Caverni & Gramigni, Cotonifcio Bonomi and Profilo. Other mills represented included Riopele from Portugal and FM Hammerle from Austria. The show also featured one South American mill: Amor Tessuto from Uruguay.

“Each mill averaged about 15 to 20 good, quality customers,” Fox said. “We were happy with the quality; all our customers are invited. And The Standard had a great atmosphere. It complemented the fabrics.”

For more information about the next European Textile Rendezvous, call Fox Fabrics at (213) 489-1727.