Stephenson
With the Fall 2007 launch of her eponymous label, North Carolina native Amy Stephenson has settled into the So- Cal premium-denim market with ease.
Strictly focused on jeans and washedcotton trousers, with limited distribution and small production runs, the line is sold at Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman, American Rag, Planet Blue, AB Fits and Nordstrom’s Via C boutiques, among others.
Still, one of the biggest challenges the designer is facing is trying to stay small. “I want to be part of every aspect of the operation, and as this label grows, it’s becoming more and more challenging to do it all,” she said. “I would rather produce 2,000 beautifully crafted pieces as opposed to 200,000.”
Targeting women 25 years old and older, Stephenson’s line offers fully finished all-bound seam construction on the interior, unusual leather and metal hardware, as well as the absence of outer branding. She views the line as being pure and vintage without being contrived, with a “just found in my mom’s hope chest” look. “I’ll never be a five-pocket brand, nor do I want to be,” Stephenson said. “I have some in the line, and they are super, but generally people come to me for novelty premium denim.”
After only one season, signature styles have emerged: “The Brother,” a boy cut that Stephenson dubbed the epitome of tomboy chic, and the “Mercer Fisherman Pant,” with sailor-style button detailing on the front pockets. The denim is sourced from Japan and Italy, sewn in Shanghai and washed in Los Angeles.
Stephenson, a Parsons School of Design graduate, designed in New York for eight years and is currently based in Los Angeles. The line remains bicoastal, and Stephenson visits New York once a month for inspiration and to see vendors. “My favorite photographers are in New York, my favorite vintage stores, etc.,” she said. “But for the most part, I live in the wash houses and shipping facilities of L.A.”
Spring 2008 is Stephenson’s sophomore season. Twelve new styles will be introduced for the upcoming season, and the best-selling “Mercer Fisherman” and a few other top sellers will be carried over, as well. Maintaining a vintage vibe, washes for the latest styles are a palette of super-light ’70s-looking tones, described by the designer as “very Woodstock.”
As she embarks on her third collection, she will also be producing diffusion lines for Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie. “They are so much fun to work with. It’s a way of growing the business for me while keeping the main line exclusive in the market,” she explained.
And for Fall 2008, the newlywed will introduce a men’s collection with four styles inspired by and fitted for her husband.
Wholesale prices range from $72 for shorts (available for Spring ’08) to $109 for the popular “Mercer Fisherman” style. Stephenson will be shown during the Los Angeles Fashion Market at the Proper Fools Showroom, located in suite 520 of the Cooper Design Space. For more information, visit www.stephensonstudio.com.—Dena Smolek
