California on the Schedule at N.Y. Fashion Week
NEW YORK—More than 20 California designers are participating in New York Fashion Week this season. (Shows officially began on Feb. 1, although Band of Outsiders/Boy kicked off the week early on Jan. 31.)
Among the West Coast labels showing in the tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and at independent venues around New York are Development by Erica Davies, Rock & Republic, Juan Carlos Obando, Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent, Monique Lhuillier, Rodarte, Koi Suwannagate, Katy Rodriguez, Marchesa, L'Wren Scott, Tadashi Shoji, Jenni Kayne and Trasteverine.
Making headlines, Max Azria is the first American designer to show three collections during New York fashion week. Azria’s lineup includes BCBG Max Azria, Max Azria and the newly relaunched Herv eacute; L eacute; ger by Max Azria collection. The Academy of Art, San Francisco hosted a conceptual and innovative group show of recent graduates. In addition, there were several former Angelenos, including former Trovata partners Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, who showed their Shipley & Halmos label. The lineup also includes the latest iteration of Halston, under the direction of Tamara Mellon, Marco Zanini and celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe.
California Apparel News and ApparelNews.net will be running coverage from the New York shows over the next two weeks.
San Francisco is shining a bright light on its upcoming design talent, and the Academy of Art University proved the city has plenty to offer in the way of innovation. The University’s School of Fashion presented the work of recent graduates on Feb. 2 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. “We are honored to be showing for the fourth time in the Bryant Park tents,” said Dr. Elisa Stephens, president of the university, in a prepared statement. “We view this opportunity as part of our commitment to launch the careers of our graduates,” she added. The runway debut allowed the school to showcase the talents of recent grads to prospective companies and press attending New York Fashion Week. And for those in attendance, the designs were less “design school” than an innovative showcase. Collections included a range of innovative fabrics, knitwear and conceptual, architectural designs. The show had plenty of variety. Futuristic styling, intricate construction and silver metal design work were utilized by fashion designer Sherise Eways and jewelry designer Melissa Christensen in a series of chic suits and dresses that kicked off the show. Colorful geometric prints and M.C. Escher–inspired artwork freshened up prints on wool, cotton and faux fur in textile-design major Young Jun Ryu’s collaborative menswear collection. Innovative knitwear by Juhee Chung was stunning, made in metallic yarns that were crafted into sculpted, geometric dress silhouettes and elaborate cardigans with braided treatments. Jee Hyoung Jang utilized quilted textiles to create architecture-inspired spatial designs, and Soo Jung Sung utilized paper-coated fabrics by Ivanka Georgiev to create stylish trench coats and dresses. Architectural structures created by BoKyung Cha were added to modern sophisticated silhouettes such as a black wool coat with cylinder-shaped folds. The effect was undeniably an ode to the avant-garde.
Max Azria debuted his BCBG Max Azria collection on Feb. 1, the opening day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. The show was one of three staged by the Los Angeles company at Bryant Park this season, each highlighting a different collection: BCBG Max Azria, the company’s core brand; Max Azria, its upscale designer collection; and Heacute;rveacute; Leacute;ger by Max Azria, a relaunch the French label owned by Azria. The three shows gave Azria the distinction of being the first American designer to show three collections during New York Fashion Week. For BCBG Max Azria, the designer translated a strong vision for the independent, modern woman. For Azria, the key to dressing this season seems to demand one have her own sense of style. Whether headed to the office or a night on the town, an individual look is the key to modernity. Tonal, demure silhouettes felt empowered yet fluid in bamboo, silk charmeuse and jersey fabrications. The collection—in shades of nude, cream, sand, dark gray and taupe— was off-set with more-serious, somber shades of mauve, dark plum, midnight, teal and cranberry. Feminine yet architectural dresses, trench coats and mini cocktail numbers were given new proportions and exaggerated details. Cocoon-shaped jackets, elaborate draped collars and pleated asymmetric capes updated classic silhouettes. Azria experimented with hand-stitched details, pleating and rosettes to create a diaphanous, organic feel to the collection.
Erica Davies has come into her own. The British-born designer presented Development by Erica Davies alongside her eponymous collection for the second time in New York, on Feb. 2. The show, held at the Waterfront (formerly The Tunnel), echoed the modern bohemian feel of its location. An urban bohemian look was created by mixing modern, refined silhouettes with colorful Romanian gypsy-inspired prints. Davies said she also tried to add a British rock ’n’ roll feel to the mix. “Erica Davies was the gypsy, and the British girl was Development. That’s how I converged the two of them,” she said. The collection played on the juxtaposition of hard and soft elements. The colorful flowing silk chiffon dresses of Erica Davies contrasted Development’s muted collection infused with sharp tailoring—a technique Davies mastered as creative director for Tyler, Richard Tyler’s diffusion line. Menswear-inspired peacoats and trousers were softened with flirty ruffled collars, oversize sweaters and flowing chiffon dresses. Hard-edged necklines, racer backs, porcelain-like studs and black bugle-bead detailing lent a futurist edge. Styles were accessorized with the recently launched collection of Development shoes, a new venture for the company, which is also planning to launch handbags in the near future.
Herveacute; Leacute;ger by Max Azria
Hollywood, get ready. Max Azria has relaunched the Herveacute; Leacute;ger collection, and the “bandage dress” has been reborn. Already spotted on a number of starlets such as Kate Bosworth, Beyonceacute; Knowles and Victoria Beckham, the form-fitting dresses have been a blowing out at retail. Holding a runway show in New York was the obvious next step to relaunch the line. While the French fashion house was acquired by BCBG Max Azria Group nearly 10 years ago, Azria began reinventing the brand last year. While updating the look, Azria is also continuing the design heritage of the house by utilizing its signature banding construction to shape and sculpt the female form. For Fall 2008, Azria modernized the signature look through the use of a sophisticated color palette and linear surface treatments such as ribbon appliqueacute;s, beading and sequins—effects inspired by French abstract painter Pierre Soulages. Azria also incorporated the banding technique into wool jackets, cashmere cardigans and waist treatments on trousers. Provocative corsetry added unapologetic sensuality to the collection while feather headbands and transparent gloves created a youthful, romantic edge. All in all, the look was elegant yet sexy and oh-so-modern.
Known for his conceptual approach to design, Juan Carlos Obando created an intriguing yet contrasting theme for his Fall ’08 collection. “Liz Goldwyn vs. Frank Miller” set the stage for a dark-edged and futuristic yet timeless collection. The Colombian-born designer held his second presentation in New York on Feb. 2 in a space in midtown Manhattan. The designer created an impressive 14-piece collection that continued the use of signature design elements, such as the hanger dress, waxed-cotton fabrics, gathered necklines and braided trims. “I wanted to do something new, but I didn’t want to walk away from what I do, which is drape beautiful, knotted, twisted, hand-tucked, hand-sewn gowns,” Obando said. The designer said he wanted to create a collection for the “Super Hero” women of today—minus the cartoony innuendo. Elegant ethereal gowns were a sharp contrast to new short mini shapes. Obando added an element of modernity with bias-panel gowns that played on color blocking in black, nude and green. Standout pieces included an austere gray gown with expertly crafted hand-folded sleeves, a purple coat made from 120 yards of hand-sewn silk chiffon strips and a hand-beaded PVC/sequin nude dress with an organza feather cape. Asymmetric lines, exquisite fabrics and futuristic studded belts characterized the collection.
Hard futuristic lines and a decidedly sexy look defined Katy Rodriguez’s Fall ’08 collection. Rodriguez’s dark direction was a sharp contrast to the soft 1960s-inspired silhouettes that debuted at Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion in 2006. The vintage retailer-turned-designer showed her collection Feb. 1 at the Mark Seliger Studio in Manhattan. The collection, titled “Birds and Other Secret Machines,” was inspired by a melding of nature and industry (e.g., birds, modern architecture and machines). Rodriguez added a sexy, almost-bondage feel to cocktail sheaths and sophisticated A-line shapes with intricate seaming and patent-leather panels. Exaggerated shoulders and body-conscious silhouettes characterized the look. Rodriquez infused the collection with patent-leather trims, color blocking and zippers for an extra edge. Daring Hollywood divas may opt for styles such as a black wool suit made with dramatic pointed shoulders, a striking red cocktail dress with intricate diagonal seaming or a black leather jacket paired with black leggings.
An independent spirit pervaded the Max Azria Fall ’08 collection. Created by husband-and-wife design team Max and Lubov Azria, the label is an artistic outlet for the duo. The collection was presented at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Feb. 4 at Bryant Park. Eclectic, yet poetic, the collection played on elements of contrast with a quirky sensibility. Azria’s free-spirited muse marched to the beat of her own drummer. Feminine silhouettes, transparent fabrics and corsetry juxtaposed menswear-inspired coats, harem-style pants and boxy, knit sweaters. Organic yet structured; feminine yet masculine—those were the dichotomies created by the Los Angeles–based label. Dresses and coats were made in unexpected fabrics such as a silk gauze that revealed hosiery and a garter belt beneath translucent layers. Bra tops were casually layered over sheer dresses for a sensual touch, and luxe furs were used to make dresses and chic, voluminous coats. Exquisite pleated details, flirty ruffled necklines and hand-molded felt caps topped off the look.
Rock & Republic is known for sex appeal, and this season, creative director and owner Michael Ball sent it into overdrive. The Feb. 2 show, which debuted at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, was aptly dubbed “Noir.” The collection, mostly in black with hints of gray and splashes of purple, was certainly on the dark side. Anyone familiar with the work of newly employed Vice President of Design David Cardona could sense a newfound sophistication. The Cardona touch was evident. Inspired by the film-noir style of the 1930s and ’40s, the designer turned out red-carpet gowns fit for sexy divas in slinky purple and inky-black jersey fabrics. Cutouts and slit-to-there slashes left little to the imagination. The collection flirted with sex and power themes at the root of film noir’s mysterious look. Men and women walked down the runway in skin-tight tailored suits and chic black-leather trench coats—all topped with fedoras. A dark undercurrent to the collection had a futuristic “Blade Runner”-meets-“The Matrix” edge. Exaggerated collars, chubby fur coats, chunky cable knit sweaters and military-esque styling personified the look. Almost absent to the collection was denim—save a few pairs of black waxed-denim jeans that were barely distinguishable on the runway. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Rock & Republic show without some theatrics. Ball employed the Treefort Recordings orchestra to perform live music throughout the show.
