California Apparel News

Coming off a lackluster holiday season, buying was expected to be cautious at the Jan. 10–15 run of the Los Angeles Fashion Market, but retailers and manufacturer representatives were resolved to make the most of about the upcoming season.

Despite a 2 percent downturn in retail apparel sales last month, some buyers weren’t carrying their negative experiences forward.

“Retail is tough right now, but it’s always tough,” said Yvonne Armas of Migulena, a new boutique in Benecia, Calif.

“You have to know your customers.” Armas was shopping at the California Market Center, eyeing mostly fill-ins.

Athena Frazier of Covet, a new store in Portland, Ore.’s up-and-coming West End, also said she was taking a positive outlook, following a round of shopping in all of the “Intersection” buildings (the CMC, The New Mart, the Cooper Design Space and the Gerry Building).

She said she found a lot of interesting denim and dresses, taking a liking to dresses by Tibi, among others.

On the CMC’s second and third floors, which carry mostly misses and updated clothing, reps said there was big item business to be had as retailers were targeting impulse items.

“It’s going back to becoming an item-driven business again,” said Stephanie Manos of Stephanie Manos Sales. “I’m seeing buyers I haven’t seen in five or six years.” Manos reported doing strongly with hand-painted tops from Heyne Bogut as well as vintage-inspired checkered and striped dresses from a variety of resources.

“Money is tight right now,” Manos said. “We don’t have big minimums, so we can work with the stores.”

Gina Yao of SideEffects also saw a strong item business with the company’s signature “J” sweaters and fringed shawls, priced at $39, as well as bamboo and soy shrugs from Sova L.A., which, she said, will be part of the invitation-only White Room at the MAGIC Marketplace next month. She projects the company will sell more than 100,000 units this year.

And in the Crayola Sisters showroom, long acetate skirts and multi-pocketed gauchos from Cordelia were among the bestsellers for 2/23 and 3/15 deliveries.

“December was very flat,” said rep Caryn Dobrow.

Reps on the CMC ’ s contemporary floor said the novelty items were also in demand.

“Everybody is looking for something different right now,” said Melonee McKinney of the Revelation showroom. “We managed to get some decent orders.” Sundresses in bright colors and bamboo-fabric logo tops from Sorted were among the top sellers. Other reps were taking new approaches to business. Rebecca Bacon of Rebecca Bacon Inc. restructured her business to become the national sales director for two brands—Anaisse and Jules Madison—rather than being a regional sales rep for about a half-dozen labels.

“I’m going narrow and deep and I couldn’t be happier,” said Bacon, who added that Anaisse’s grayish fitted tops and body dresses made in Supima/Modal were checking as were metallic highlighted “Daisy Duke” shorts and streamlined trousers from Jules Madison.

Swaying Traffic at Brighte

Reps reported off and on traffic during the Brighte Companies show, held Jan. 10–13 at the CMC’s Fashion Theater. Silk printed tops and dresses were the order of the day for many companies. Los Angeles designer Joy Han was among the first on the scene with them a couple of seasons ago with her Voom line, and now she’s debuted a new diffusion line called Va Va, featuring cotton tops embroidered with playful designs wholesale priced from $39 to $69.

Aside from breaking into a lower price bracket, Han hopes to service more stores, as she’s been limiting distribution to only one account per zip code, she said.

Carrie Cummings of Beverly Hills–based Devotion Takes a Trip said the saturation of print dresses has brought some buyers to her knit tank dresses featuring rock album cover art from Elvis Presley, the Beatles and others.

“Everybody’s doing the silk because it’s easy and there’s a decent margin, but there’s so much of it now. Buyers are coming here looking for things like this to be different,” she said.

Los Angeles designer Sherry Nikka was at Brighte promoting her silk and leather “goddess” gowns and dresses in metallic finishes priced from $200 to $400.

An outfitter to several celebrities, Nikka said she will feel the brunt of the current writers’ strike and resulting cancellation of awards shows. But she hopes to compensate with her new men’s collection, which will bow next month in Las Vegas at the Project Global Trade Show.

And denim made a slight comeback at Brighte. Among the denim exhibitors on hand were Small Town, a relatively new Los Angeles– based line from designer Orion Anthony that features nine bodies, clean finishes and price points from $90 to $95.

“We have a great fit and we’re hearing a lot of stores are tired of carrying the same big brands and are looking for something fresh and new,” he said.

Steady Flow at D&A

Consistency was the name of the game at the Designers and Agents show, held Jan. 11–13 on the third floor of The New Mart.

The show started strongly and held fairly steady throughout the weekend as buyers were scouting D&A for Spring and Summer dresses, denim, and accessories.

“I think that everyone comes to these in-between shows looking to pick up mid-season business without the same expectations that they do in entering into a much larger Spring or Fall market,” said show co-producer Barbara Kramer. “There was a pretty-consistent flow of buyers throughout the three days, with the first day being rock and roll all day long.”

D&A placed green leaf awards to signage of booths selling eco-based clothing. Reps from eco tee dealer Love Heals opened 10 new accounts from eco-conscious stores at the show. The green leaves are presented to exhibitors that carry at least a 25 percent mix of eco-friendly products.

D&A was coming off a surprisingly strong New York edition, held Jan. 6–8, Kramer said.

“Many stores told me that they had purposely cut back on the orders that they wrote at the end of 2007 and now were in need of Immediate merchandise, as they sold out, so that was encouraging to hear.”

While the ubiquitous silk printed dress was well represented at D&A, there was enough variety to keep buyers upbeat, said reps. Mini shorts were emerging from the pack, said Tadd Zarubica of Los Angeles– based Denim of Virtue. The company was selling a variety of colors and finishes.

“Last year there was some business in it. This year it’s a real category,” he said.

Designer Ticci Tonetto of TicciCabana said her recent trip to Mexico, which inspired her Spring line, was worth it, as she wrote numerous orders for her embroidered Mexican peasant tops in bright colors. The tops are priced from $20 to $45.

Taryn Wittlin of Tokidoki said the booth received some nice rushes of traffic. The line features graphic tees featuring Japanese animeacute;-style art for $20 and up. Wittlin said she also received feedback that the holiday season was rough for stores.

“One buyer from Las Vegas said he was just moving out of sportswear and more into the couture, Chanel-type of business,” she said.

High-end exhibitors such as Paul &Joe didn’t experience much resistance with its $300-and-up price points. It was selling in strapless tuxedo dresses and tuxedo blouses at the show.

Price Conscious at The New Mart and Cooper

Buyers descended on the Cooper Design Space and The New Mart in search of contemporary Summer goods at value price points. “There is a very valueoriented focus during this market,” said Janine Milne of the Janine Milne Studio in The New Mart. “Buyers felt much more comfortable buying proven, versatile styles such as a lightweight cardigan or jacket silhouettes. The key to a tough 2008 will be getting contemporary designs for $90 to $100.”

At Terry Sahagen Sales, which represents brands such as Ella Moss, Milly, Tracy Reese and Plenty, buyers opted to shop for Summer goods over Pre- Fall. There, too, buys were dominated by price and trend, with a sweet spot focusing on dresses that would retail below $300 and tops priced below $150. “Buyers didn’t want to go any higher than that,” said sales rep Effie Valsamis. Though traffic in the showroom was steady, buyers seemed to be taking notes—rather than writing orders—more than normal for the Summer market. “Only the really strong stores were writing paper,” she said. “Everyone is nervous about the economy.”

At Stacey Rhoads Sales, JennyHan silk dresses in easy shapes earned buys with their palatable retail price point of $80 to $100 and popularity at retail. Lightweight Nelson jackets loaded with details and priced at a comfortable $90 to $120 retail also did well. “Buyers are going with what works: lower price points, short dresses and versatile shapes,” said Erika Shelton, a sales rep.

The Room showroom saw lots of interest in Rhys Dwyfen’s body-hugging knit dresses for Summer. “Everything wholesales for $50 to $70, which is ideal for lots of buyers right now,” said Lee Lenox, a sales rep for the line. Long dresses were a hard sell, Lenox added, as buyers gravitated toward short, light pieces that could be layered as temperatures drop.

Mike & Chris, which debuted its new company showroom at the Cooper Design Space for the market, garnered interest in leather for Summer. “It is a little unusual, but we are known for our leather pieces,” said Amy Doidge, director of sales. Sleek silhouettes in silk and woven pine also earned buys, she said.

At the Yaya Aflalo showroom, buyers responded to breezy, feminine styles from the designer’s YaYa and Love YaYa lines. But the real star of the market was Moon Katz, Aflalo’s new diffusion line that offers contemporary design at a lower price point. Wholesale prices for the line hover between $60 and $130. “Price was a big issue for the market, so buyers were drawn to Moon Katz because of the lower price point. People are scared, and they are being very cautious,” said Elana Rosenblatt, a sales rep.

Ethan Eller, general manager of The New Mart, said tenants reported a strong market. The building counted 1,034 registered buyers—the same number that attended the Summer market last January. “Considering the difficult economy, keeping an even attendance is good. We’re pleased with the market,” Eller said. Increased attendance from international buyers in town to take advantage of the weak dollar contributed to the brisk feel, Eller said. Buyers from New Zealand, France, Israel, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Dubai, Taiwan, Haiti, Puerto Rico, the Czech Republic and Italy shopped the Summer market, he reported.

Mona Sangkala, leasing director at the Cooper Design Space, said she expects to see more international buyers at the Fall market. “I think we will see more foreign buyers the next market. The delivery usually shown at January is not a big delivery,” she said.

Appointment-only at the Gerry

The Gerry Building saw little traffic during market. The building, which is in the process of converting its showrooms to commercial office condominiums, has seen several tenants leave recently.

It Jeans vacated its showroom there, opting instead to show at Brighte Companies and host buyers in its retrofitted motor home parked on Los Angeles Street during market. Another longtime tenant, The Clarity Showroom, moved to the Cooper Design Space in time for market. “I could get important stores into the [Gerry] Building, but there was virtually no walkin [traffic],” said Clarity owner Stacia Diamond.

The Nikki and Lucy Showroom, one of the building’s longtime tenants, is keeping its showroom in the Gerry building but showed its lines to buyers at the Brighte Companies and D&A shows. “We had to do it. We just don’t get the foot traffic or buyer interest here [in the building],” said Lucy Thompson, the showroom’s co-owner. If buyers wanted to see the showroom’s complete offerings at once, Thompson made an appointment with them in the showroom. But that was a rare exception, she said. Still, the Summer market didn’t live up to the gloom-and-doom whispers she’d been hearing for weeks, Thompson said. “It wasn’t as horrible as we’d heard it might be, though our numbers are definitely off.” Buyers, cautious with their buys, wrote orders only if “they absolutely loved something,” she said.