New York Fashion Week Spring '09: Koi Suwannagate

NEW YORK—Koi Suwannagate ventured into new territory when designing her Summer 2009 collection. The Thai-born, Los Angeles–based designer, known for her hand-sculpted recycled-cashmere creations, proved she can work in a number of media.

Suwannagate experimented with multiple fabrications and embellishments, including silk, linen, organza, Swarovski crystals and lightweight cashmere. “As a designer, you have to grow,” said Suwannagate. “I’m a knit designer, but I can do more than knits. I want to show people that this is something I can do too,” she explained.

Shown on Sept. 6 during New York Fashion Week, the unexpected combination of fabrics, feathers, sculpted rosettes and cascading butterfly appliqueacute;s created a dreamy, almost ethereal look. Soft neutral tones in ivory and light silver gray were paired with pastel hues accented by splashes of bright fuchsia. The designer applied a vintage butterfly print to elegant dresses and created a watercolor feather print for chiffon skirts. She collaborated with Los Angeles artists Josh and He Yang, a husband-and-wife design duo who make fabric out of yarn. Tops and skirts had a cocoon-like texture that complemented the butterfly theme. Swarovski sponsored the show, and Suwannagate incorporated the crystals into stunning eveningwear and a number of exquisite necklaces. The poetic collection was inspired by actress Louise Brooks. Suwannagate, who watched a Brooks biography, said she was inspired by the independent spirit of the silent-film star. “I was taken by her attitude that women should be intellectual, be free, be who they are,” Suwannagate said. —N. Jayne Seward