FGI-LA Talks Fashion and Red-Carpet Style

The conversation was lively, and the quips were fast and furious at Fashion Group International—Los Angeles’ “Image & Influence” panel discussion, held April 24 at The Art Institute of California’s campus in North Hollywood,Calif.

In front of a crowd that included a mix of students, industry executives and FGI–LA members, several well-known fashion writers, stylists and designers offered insight, insider gossip and advice.

“I’ve been doing this a long time,” said designer Randolph Duke. “You can have a nice, long career in fashion.”

Duke shared the panel with fellow designer Louis Verdad; N. Jayne Seward, fashion editor of California Apparel News; stylist and fashion pundit Marcellas Reynolds; and Refinery29 Los Angeles editor Brenna Egan. Comedian Carla Collins served as emcee.

The discussion kicked off with a question about the influence of trends on red-carpet fashions.“Fashion trends are hard for the red carpet because you don’t have the same posterity,” Duke said. If the actress wins an award, the image of her in the dress “has to look good 50 years from now,” he explained.

The designer has dressed many award-winning actresses over the years, including Angelina Jolie in 1999, when she won a Golden Globe for “Gia.” “It’s a personal thing,” he explained. “When you work with an actress, she’s a woman with the same insecurities of the everyday woman [although] she may have to walk the red carpet and be scrutinized by everyone.”

Duke relayed a story about a New York stylist who puts blue tape over the labels of dresses he brings to clients so they make their selection based on the dress, not the designer. 
“It’s the magic of the goose bumps when she looks in the mirror,” he said.

For some of the panelists, the fashions at the recent Academy Awards were deemed pretty—but “safe.”“Thank God for Tilda Swinton,” Egan said.Seward, however, noted a few winning looks from this year’s event, including Tom Ford’s gown-and-cape ensemble worn by Gwyneth Paltrow. “The Tom Ford on Gwyneth Paltrow—that was a show-stopping moment,” she said.

And “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo” star Rooney Mara’s edgy, distinctive look made an impression even before awards season began.“Rooney Mara was clearly an influence on collections—that dark glamour—Gucci, Prada, Givenchy were all influenced,” she said.

Panelists also sparred good-naturedly over the importance of design training and study versus instinct and intuition.“You cannot be a doctor without going to medical school,” Reynolds said. “Do your research. Know something about the ’20s. Tell me about Cuba in the ’40s. It’s like on ‘America’s Next Top Model’ when the models don’t know who Kate Moss is or how Steven Klein is different from Steven Meisel.”

Verdad agreed that training and study are important, but he also acknowledged importance of “raw talent.”“A lot of houses of fashion are constantly looking for raw talent—young people who dream up something and put it together,” he said. “There’s something to be said for people who have that sixth sense [about fashion].”

When the conversation turned to celebrity lines, Reynolds despaired over celebrities who “never took a design class” running fashion companies.

“There’s a difference between picking merchandise at a private-label manufacturer, which is what celebrities do,” Duke added. “Somehow it became if you know how to put an outfit together, you’re a designer. That’s not true. It’s a craft. Even though you can throw all the rules out.”

Reynolds described the interplay between fashion and celebrities as “part of the dumbing down of fashion. You no longer have to move fashion forward if all you care about is getting a dress on a Kardashian,” he said.

In October, The Art Institute will present its annual runway show, this year titled “Body Politic.” The panelists were asked to weigh in on political fashion.

Seward noted first lady Michelle Obama’s influence on designers across the spectrum.“Michelle Obama has brought glamour to the White House,” she said. “She picks a lot of young American designers. She also wears J. Crew. People relate to her style. She’s an amazing ambassador for fashion.”—Alison A. Nieder

Photo on the home page of Angelina Jolie wearing Randolph Duke at the 1999 Golden Globes from Marie Claire, photos of Gwyneth Paltrow and Rooney Mara from this year’s Academy Awards from People.