The Top 10 Messages for Fall 2019 With an Eye Toward Fall 2020
Fall collections are considered the most exciting of the fashion calendar because of the many more clothing options the cooler season offers. The lush materials, the chunky sweaters, the outerwear pieces, the mix of textures, the opportunities for layering—all add up to a season rich in expressive possibilities.
For next Fall, there is a mix of classic and quirky. Key looks gain dimension from artisanal techniques that include tie-dye and knitting; soft, seasonless dresses; and a new penchant for tailoring. There is no one look, but each piece is strong enough to add newness to any closet. All of these trends are outlined by Graubard, the founder and creative director of MintModa, an online trend service.
The Tie-Dye Knit Top
Tie-dye has grown up the last few seasons, becoming more artisanal and less hippie in its connotations. For next Fall, the technique is used in all classifications, but a top is the easiest way to include tie-dye’s signature swirls and splotches.
Sheer knits with exposed seams are key, but there are also tie-dye sweatshirts and gently dip-dyed sweaters. The color combos can be anything from earthy vegetal tones to monochrome brights and pastel tints. Tie-dye also appears on snug mock-turtle tops in ribbed knits or stretch velvets.
The Crafty Sweater
More handcrafted charm comes from textural sweaters. A mix of both crochet and knitting techniques combines with dimensional stitchery or space-dyed effects to provide visual as well as tactile interest.
Sleeves can offer a completely different texture than the sweater body. Thick-and-thin or other novelty yarns—used all over or for fringe details—bring even more dimension. Motifs are created with contrasting yarns used for rough embroideries or “bad” mending stitches. Even when there are classic elements, like argyles or Fair Isle motifs, the sweater is patchworked to produce a DIY, rustic effect.
The High-Neck Blouse
The modesty movement of the last few seasons has sparked a trend toward covered-up styles, especially for woven tops. The newest blouse is high necked but not frilly; the inspiration is more 1970s working girl than 19th-century Victorian.
There are dress-for-success bow blouses, gathered-neck poet styles and somewhat tailored looks with built-in scarves. Fabrics range from menswear shirting stripes to fluid silks, which can be solid, printed or have a jacquard pattern. Burnout velvets, missing from fashion for several seasons, make a welcome return for next Fall.
The Demure Dress
Dresses have now become seasonless pieces as customers understand how to “winterize” their favorite floral-printed frocks by layering them over (or even under) sweaters and pairing them with pants or high boots.
For next Fall, the palette gets a bit more autumnal, with rust-colored or flame-orange grounds for florals. Necklines are high and sleeves are elbow length or longer, but hemlines can hit anywhere from mid thigh to low calf. Whether mini or midi, the mood is well-mannered and polished. Many of these dresses have soft bows at the neck, either as an attached self-fabric tie or a separate contrasting sash, underlining the demure mood.
The Easy Midi Skirt
In fashion there is always a moment when a shifting proportion takes hold—a widened shoulder, a fuller sleeve or a higher waist—and suddenly nothing else looks “right.” Such is the case with the midi skirt. When it first started appearing several seasons ago, it was part of a general mix of hemlines—a multiple choice of mini, knee skimming, below knee, midi or maxi. While all of these lengths are still valid, and women will choose what suits them, the low-calf midi length seems to stand out as the length du jour.
For next Fall, these longer skirts have a swingy, easy attitude. The silhouette can be A-line, pleated or gathered, and materials range from tweed, denim or leather to chiffons and printed silks.
The Plaid Pant
There’s something about plaid pants—collegiate yet cool, nerdy yet swaggering, classic yet festive, prim yet slightly punky. For next Fall, any plaid or check on any silhouette will do.
There are windowpane and Prince of Wales checks, tartans and houndstooths. Pant shapes include paper bag–waist baggies, trim and tailored trousers, flare legs or stovepipes. There are even distressed plaid pants with holes in the knees, making them a new alternative to jeans. The pants can be cropped or floor dragging, high waist or hip slung. Subtle details like slit hems add more newness.
The Cool Pantsuit
The mood of fashion seems to be slowly shifting from boho flowing dresses and mismatched separates to smart, tailored pieces that mean business.
Part of this shift is the renewed interest in wear-it-to-work clothes, with mail-order companies offering kits containing work-appropriate ensembles and Rent-the-Runway drop-offs at WeWork locations.
That increased desire for tailoring is reflected in the white pantsuits worn by women in Congress and in the increased sightings of a few pantsuits amid the sea of frothy gowns on recent red carpets. These new suits can be in neutrals, pastels or brights, matte menswear fabrics or rich jacquards. Pants can be slim or slouchy, but jackets, in general, are sharp.
The High-Gloss Slicker
A new coat is often the centerpiece of Fall wardrobes—the must-have item that elevates and refreshes everything beneath it.
For next Fall, the shiny coat will confer an up-to-the-minute aura on its wearer. Many of these wet-look toppers are trench styled, giving the coats a film noir–heroine mystique. Jet black is always right, but these are also shown in lipstick reds, inky blues or greens, creamy camels and browns. True patent leather is for luxe versions, but pleather, vinyl, nylon or even plastic-coated poplins work too.
The Flat Puffer
The puffer has evolved far from its skiwear roots. New, elegant versions are as flat as an envelope and as weightless as dandelion fluff. Most of these minimalist styles come without buttons or closures of any kind and are worn open or secured with a self-belt, bathrobe style.
Some have shawl collars, emphasizing the house-robe feel. These wraps are perfect for modern nomads. They provide just enough warmth, can roll up into a suitcase or a tote bag, and bring fresh style to any ensemble. They can also work as a lining “shell” under a heavier coat, either completely covered by a long style or worn as a longer layer under a hip-length jacket.
For Fall 2020, color moves fully into an orange moment. There are bright tangerines, red-orange persimmons, deep rust and brick tones that function as neutrals. Bright pink is key and looks fresh when coordinated with red. Olive greens take on a bright or neutral character, often worn with teal or brown. Purple-cast blues uptrend, and gray returns to fashion after a long absence.
- Archroma 101-540 / 2. Archroma 104-980 / 3. Archroma 106-540 / 4. Archroma 110-630 / 5. Archroma 215-980 / 6. Archroma 547-860 / 7. Archroma 108-970 / 8. Archroma 544-250 / 9. Archroma 544-970 / 10. Archroma 326-950 / 11. Archroma 433-420 / 12. Archroma 655-210